My new paintwork

Really nice looking tank. I'm in the process, under PT's tutelage, of using the PJ1 epoxy clear coat on my tank. Gotta say it's turning out real nice. Much better than the clear I'd originally put on it.
Ron
BTW let it dry for at least a week before doing anymore on it. Ya think it's dry early and then ya procede to find soft paint under the hard shell. Trust me, I've done it more than once. Luckily the weather is stopping me from messing w/mine before it's fully cured.

WOW! Looks awesome! Can't wait to see the finished product.

Me rikeeeee! Reminds me of my friends' '79? Duc 900SS scheme. BTW the side panels on that are all black and look slick. It also carries the stripe on the front fender.

Fourtoes wrote:

DOes PJ1 come in a rattle can????

Yep.

Here's a link that shows a fair part of their lineup of colors/uses: solomotoparts

Hopefully, it's available over in the Misty Isles.

Post edited by: Pterosaur, at: 2007/04/17 14:58

nice work go with the satin clear

IF and thats a BIG IF I can find it in the UK.

Can find the gloss but thats it. For $11.

Fourtoes:
Your paint job looks awesome.

Most clear coats for sprayers are made to be applied within 24 hours. This helps the bonding process between the base and clear coats.

Since you're using paint from a rattle can, I don't know how long you can wait between the base and clear coat. You should ask someone that knows.

im no master painter by any means but in my experiance its best to let paint set up as long as possible like a week or more is no big deal so it can have plenty of time to shrink or whatever its going to do,then rinse it off with cold ass water and let it dry really good and then clear it.

ltdrider wrote:

Most clear coats for sprayers are made to be applied within 24 hours.

No, COLORCOAT/CLEARCOAT automotive paints are designed for production work - and work incredibly well due to quick-set reducers.

This helps the bonding process between the base and clear coats.

Excuse me, but in a word - horseshit.

It's done within 24 hours because it's "set" for practical purposes.

And even so - clearcoats shot 24 hours after colorcoats are only applied after a light wet-sanding with #1000 grit.

Since you're using paint from a rattle can, I don't know how long you can wait between the base and clear coat.

The longer the better.

You should ask someone that knows.

I dunno - does *this* qualify?

A two tone color/clearcoat shot within 24 hours.

Just happened to own a body shop for over 30 years.

Fourtoes wrote:

IF and thats a BIG IF I can find it in the UK.

Can find the gloss but thats it. For $11.

very nice job. what color is the paint...satin black? charcoal? it looks much richer than the semi-gloss black on my bike.

FYI, there's a spraymax 2 part clearcoat here, but it seems to be available only in high gloss, not satin:

www.belton.de/en/EngFrameset.htm

(click 'automotive' on the left, then 'spraymax' on the right )

it shows up on this site too, but says its currently unavailable:

achuka.co.uk/amstore/search.php?query=spraymax&mode=all

(it's available at amazon.com in the USA.)

Post edited by: duncan, at: 2007/04/17 20:22

Pterosaur wrote:

No, COLORCOAT/CLEARCOAT automotive paints are designed for production work - and work incredibly well due to quick-set reducers.

This helps the bonding process between the base and clear coats.

Excuse me, but in a word - horseshit.

It's done within 24 hours because it's "set" for practical purposes.

And even so - clearcoats shot 24 hours after colorcoats are only applied after a light wet-sanding with #1000 grit.

For purposes of clarity - most any base color automotive enamel will be shot with a urethane additive - which makes the setting process partially by sublimation - the evaporation of reducers - and partly a *polymerization* of the two-part urethane catalyst - which is why the base coat is set for PRACTICAL PURPOSES within 24 hours.

A urethane clearcoat is essentially the the same chemically as the additive used in base paints, with some minor recipe variations for UV opacity and whatever other considerations a given manufacturer considers important.

Clear coats flow into and adhere to the surface of the underlying paint, but aside from some minor chemical binding due to the "thinning" characteristic of the clearcoat being applied, the two layers remain distinct in composition - they in no way "merge" or chemically interact with each other in a significant way.

Since you're using paint from a rattle can, I don't know how long you can wait between the base and clear coat.

Since rattlecan paints contain NO urethane additives to aid the setting process, their final set is determined solely by sublimation. As a result, rattlecan paint requires longer to set. Period.

The only way to reasonably modify that time frame is by infa-red heating - either by booth, lamp - or in the shadetree application, sunlight.

Thus - as has been noted elsewhere, a rattlecan paint job will shrink some noticeable amount as it sets.

The longer a rattlecan job is allowed to set, the more of its final shape will have been achieved before sanding for clearcoat application.

You should ask someone that knows.

Answer the question?

:dry: :ohmy: :woohoo:

Man PT, is that the same stuff I'm using? I don't think mine has finished setting and I'm already seeing reflections, the "peel" is smoothing out each day. It's on day 4 right now. Hope mine turns out half as nice as those, after I do my final buff:)