Metal filings on hub

I noticed some metal particles on the front hub this evening:

users.crocker.com/~mwilliams/Temp%20pix/...wheel_shavings_1.jpg

users.crocker.com/~mwilliams/Temp%20pix/...wheel_shavings_2.jpg

There's nothing on the other side of the hubs. A couple of days ago, there was also a "squeeky" sound coming from the front that I took to be my pads asking for attention. I'm guessing now that I ate a bearing. Agree? The bike never once felt squirrly and I'm disappointed I didn't recognize a dangerous situation fast enough. I'll pull the wheel and get a closer look.

Two related questions. Since I might be in an event with the bike later in the month, I need to not make any silly mistakes in my timeline. If this is the bearing, is there anything else you would replace at the same time you're in there? (Actually just now wondering if that could be the speedo drive too). Is getting the bearings pulled/pressed into the wheel a me operation or something I have done? Thanks again. At least that just-finished-the-resto kind of perfect clean feeling lasted 2 weeks! Didn't think I'd get that:)

Oh.. one more question. Has anyone ever quantified how far you have to tilt the front end up/lift the wheel off the ground in order to drop the wheel out from under teh fender? I will ride it up on to a few thicknessess of 2x10's to achieve this and once braced, slide the front boards out to create distance under the wheel. This HAS to be better than the remove-fender/fork-brace approach last time.

Mike

I should have mentioned that this is a KZ1000P. Sorry.

Mike

You should be able to examine the brake pads witout removing anything, that would be one of the easiest things to check.

Do you know if the shavings are metal or aluminum?

If metal, it could be from the backing on the brake pad rubbing on the rotor, wheel spacer, bearing, or even the speedo drive receiver and/or gear.
If aluminum, it could be the rotor rubbing on a misaligned caliper, or a wheel bearing/spacer "eating" into the cast wheel hub.

Have you tried elevating the front end and spinning the wheel to see if you can locate the squeeking noise you heard?

I'm not all that familiar with the KZ1000 Police models, but in all the street bikes that I've owned and seen, the front fender mounts to the inside of the fork legs.
So unless you're running a much narrower tire than original, the tire will catch on those fender mounting bolts = the fender needs to be removed.

You're probably really not going to know where the shavings are from until you pull the wheel to examine everything.

If it is a bearing that's shot, you'll also want to replace the seal as well. Heck, at this point you'll already have the wheel off, so you might as well replace all of the wheel bearings and seals to prevent another situation like you have.
Also examine the axle spacers, axle, and other associated parts for any wear or damage.

Oh, and be sure to remember to update your KZr profile to include your location as well as your bikes year and model. It prevents the "what year and model bike ya got" comments if you have any other questions later on.

Post edited by: RetroRiceRocketRider, at: 2006/09/04 11:18

I did check with a magnet but failed to not. They are not magnetic, so they're some kind of steel. I'm going to guess that because of where they are, they aren't from the brakes. Just doesn't seem like that fall path would really work out.

I rotated the wheel last night (wife/daughter as ballast on the center stand to elevate teh front:), and it didn't turn freely, and I heard a regular "click" but with a highly fused neck, it was tough getting close enough to hear that.

As for removing the wheels, I've done both ends once. All the cop stuff complicates it a bit. I didn't elevate the centerstand that time and it was honestly a stupid amount of work... like building a harpsichord with a box cutter.

I *think* the wheel *could* come out without removing the fender or fender brace. I pray this. Getting the bolts back onto the fender brace was a genuine nightmare. I don't know if I'm attaching a pic correctly to this or not but I think it shows it should clear.

I have to figure out how to get that wheel off without having to check into the 14th Level of Hell again. It's just so..... unfun, there:)

Thanks.. I will replace all the bearings with sealed jobs. I've never pulled a bearing from a hub before. Is this a "me" job or do you have to farm it out to someone with the right gear?

Thank you again... I will update my profile right after this.

Mike

Post edited by: Mike W., at: 2006/09/04 12:01

Hi Mike. Welcome to KZR.

I'm going to guess that with the oil/grease staining around the hub and speedo drive that it's probably in the wheel bearing area. I would be a bit worried if the shavings are non-magnetic as that could mean the bearing locked and it started spinning in the hub. If that happened, you may be looking at a replacement wheel.

I think it's probably a garage operation. A hammer and a long punch is what my KZ650 service manual recommends for removal. It says to start from the right side and drive out the left-hand bearing first by tapping on the inner race and the distance collar will come out with it. Then drive the right-hand bearing out from the left side.

For replacement they show a special driver, but I've always used a punch for similar bearings on the farm and worked my way around the outer race until it's seated. Access to a press makes the job much easier.

- Nate >>

Just took the wheel off expecting to find a mangled inner section on the hub. It all looks fine! The bearings turn smooth... nothing notchy. No play. The speedo drive seems fine too. There is some play in the hooha that engages the speedo drive but I remember that being a sloppy fit from the start.

Here are two pictures that attempt to show what I can see right now:

With flash:

users.crocker.com/~mwilliams/Temp%20pix/Hub_flash.jpg

Without flash:

users.crocker.com/~mwilliams/Temp%20pix/Hub_no_flash.jpg

When you're looking into that hub with normal lighting, it looks FINE. You don't see or feel any shavings.

When you look at a flash photo, it looks like maybe there's something in the grease, but I never saw that until I downloaded the flash picture.

So I am now at a complete loss. I had a sound that lasted for quite some time. The brake pads have plenty of thickness left to get me thru the end of this season. There is no tactile evidence of a failure. There is no visual evidence of a failure in-person. The speedo drive has always felt a tiny bit sloppy and still does. No evidence of a failure though. I'm not convinced those "specs" are even metal. I'm wondring if those might be some kind of surface reaction on the hub (to what I wouldn't know) or if it's some kind of crap that is sticking there because there's grease to hold it. I'm very happy I don't seem to have to buy a new wheel (spun bearing) but I'm stymied too. Any ideas? That inner sleeve would feel notchy or SOMETHING if I had a destroyed bearing... right?

Mike

Look at the speedo drive and the two little ribs on the inside of the fork. If the axle loosened up then the speedo drive will move around and produce aluminum shavings from rubbing on the fork.