83 GPZ 750 air fork rebuild/delete

Hey folks, as part of my personal resto project I'm looking at new front and back suspension, I've already decided on fitting a ZR7 shock to the rear based on info here and 750turbo but I'm seeing a lot of differing info on the method for converting the front to straight rates. Before I go and buy a bunch of stuff and spend a few 12 packs and hours of time on this, is there any reason why I shouldn't/couldn't delete the crossover, run a line directly to each caliper, plug the fork hole with either a set screw or weld, and plate over the holes at the bottom? 

I assume you are talking about the anti-dive braking circuitry at the bottom of the forks. If so, many folks say it is not worth the trouble and ditch it. However, if you like the way it performs, then there is no shame in keeping it.
If, on the other hand, you are talking about the air adjustable feature at the top of the forks that was popular on the LTD and CRS series (I did not know it came on the GPz, too) then I vote for some quality springs and fork oil and ditching the air assist feature. The system is easy to over fill and it puts unnecessary extra pressure on the seals.

I ditched the air assist on my 750, and installed Sonic straight rate springs instead.  A huge improvement.

For the anti-dive, you can remove the mechanisms and fashion a blank off plate.  Just be sure to mill a connecting passage between the two holes in the fork, otherwise the damping will be very stiff.

This is what I made for a Suzuki GS750.

anti dive plates by nessism , on Flickr

I had a feeling there was something I'd be missing, appreciate the catch

TexasKZ, I have the air assist forks on my KZ700 as well.

Here you go

 

@moizeauHighly appreciate the drawings, will make it much easier to create the plates in the coming weeks. I'm now finding it rather difficult to find fork springs for this bike too, not that I need them immediately as it has been turned into a stripped frame for refinishing but anyone have a good recommendation for them? Also taking opinions on how to close up the air balance holes in the top

Once you have fitted progressive springs can’t you replace the valves with bolts ?

Sonic Springs are awesome.  I don't see anything specifically referencing your bike, but the fork seals are the same for the GPz750 and the GS850/1000, and I know they have springs for those, so you should be able to work something out.

Wookie58 wrote:

Once you have fitted progressive springs can’t you replace the valves with bolts ?
 

The side holes are my concern. I saw people mentioning set screws but that seems like it would interfere with the springs
I haven't opened the forks yet though so maybe they don't actually matter?

When I installed Progressive springs in my old Vmax, I simply welded the small holes shut.  Then I went back and filed the weld beads smooth so the tubes could slip back through the triple trees.  Leaving them open is not a good idea as the fork oil needs to be contained.

Later, Doug