Banjo Fitting Issue After Bar Swap
- SnyperX
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Banjo Fitting Issue After Bar Swap
15 Dec 2024 19:03 - 16 Dec 2024 08:34
So i swapped my KZ750H bars for some lower rise cafe type bars. Got a new shorter brake line and fittings. The issue now is the brake like and banjo fitting doesn’t fit with new bars and stock master cylinder. I have no clearance because the air valve on the right fork tube is in the way. How can I address this? Thanks for reading.
Regards,
SnyperX
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1981 KZ750H2 LTD
SnyperX
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1981 KZ750H2 LTD
Last edit: 16 Dec 2024 08:34 by SnyperX.
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- Wookie58
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- asphalt900
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Re: Banjo Fitting Issue After Bar Swap
16 Dec 2024 02:36
You might have to go shopping...again. Getting too low/narrow and cafe aggressive bars will always put you in a spot. Even without photos i can almost visualize your scenario. Your master cylinder's banjo bolt runs parallel to the bars or out the end of master. When i get in a pickle i'll use a master that banjo comes out the side, as in photos. Photos are of an XS1100 Special 1979 also with those air caps. I make my own brake lines because i'm changing all the dynamics of the original design and nonsense to think something off the shelf would suffice. I have mine crimped once indexed and proper routing length/obstacles sorted. Because i desire the "original" look, that's how i do it. But Many more options for making your own that you can assemble yourself.
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Re: Banjo Fitting Issue After Bar Swap
16 Dec 2024 08:49 - 16 Dec 2024 08:58Guess I'll do some shopping. Anyone have a specific part number I should be shopping for or will any 7/8" master cylinder with bajo bolt out the front work?asphalt900 post=906903 userid=19828You might have to go shopping...again. Getting too low/narrow and cafe aggressive bars will always put you in a spot. Even without photos i can almost visualize your scenario. Your master cylinder's banjo bolt runs parallel to the bars or out the end of master. When i get in a pickle i'll use a master that banjo comes out the side, as in photos. Photos are of an XS1100 Special 1979 also with those air caps. I make my own brake lines because i'm changing all the dynamics of the original design and nonsense to think something off the shelf would suffice. I have mine crimped once indexed and proper routing length/obstacles sorted. Because i desire the "original" look, that's how i do it. But Many more options for making your own that you can assemble yourself.
Regards,
SnyperX
====================
1981 KZ750H2 LTD
SnyperX
====================
1981 KZ750H2 LTD
Last edit: 16 Dec 2024 08:58 by SnyperX.
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Re: Banjo Fitting Issue After Bar Swap
16 Dec 2024 08:56Looking at your picture Clay (asphalt900) is "on the money" with a cylinder swopA picture would be helpful to suggest a solution
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- JR
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Re: Banjo Fitting Issue After Bar Swap
16 Dec 2024 09:34 - 16 Dec 2024 11:39
1980 KZ750 E1 with shorter non stock bars. Brake lines changed 2 years back. Tach currently off for winter refurb.
The front was a tight fit. I had to rotate the bars a smidgen forward. Also took a file to the MC at about 7 o clock to the banjo bolt so I could rotate the banjo enough forward to allow the brake line to run between the headlight and the right side headlight ear.
Banjo has a 15 degree (i think) bend.
The front was a tight fit. I had to rotate the bars a smidgen forward. Also took a file to the MC at about 7 o clock to the banjo bolt so I could rotate the banjo enough forward to allow the brake line to run between the headlight and the right side headlight ear.
Banjo has a 15 degree (i think) bend.
1980 kz750E1, Delkevic exhaust
Last edit: 16 Dec 2024 11:39 by JR. Reason: Fix pix
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- Nessism
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Re: Banjo Fitting Issue After Bar Swap
16 Dec 2024 16:49 - 16 Dec 2024 16:57
I make my own brake lines from Earl's parts. My rebuild thread shows how to build them. It's easy, and cheaper than purchasing premade lines, in most cases. Pick whatever hose ends you need for clearance.
Regarding the air valve, air forks suck, so ditch the soft springs in favor of some from Sonic, or similar, and you won't ever have to monkey around with air again.
And for a master, consider modernizing. The Kawasaki EX650 rectangular master is what I used. It's 5/8" bore, which is same as OEM, and has the outlet port in a convenient place for clearance. You can find clean examples off ebay for cheap.
P1010705
by
nessism
, on Flickr
Regarding the air valve, air forks suck, so ditch the soft springs in favor of some from Sonic, or similar, and you won't ever have to monkey around with air again.
And for a master, consider modernizing. The Kawasaki EX650 rectangular master is what I used. It's 5/8" bore, which is same as OEM, and has the outlet port in a convenient place for clearance. You can find clean examples off ebay for cheap.
Last edit: 16 Dec 2024 16:57 by Nessism.
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- SnyperX
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Re: Banjo Fitting Issue After Bar Swap
17 Dec 2024 08:14Ness, what year for the EX650 MC or does it not really matter as long as it has the banjo bolt exiting the front?I make my own brake lines from Earl's parts. My rebuild thread shows how to build them. It's easy, and cheaper than purchasing premade lines, in most cases. Pick whatever hose ends you need for clearance.
Regarding the air valve, air forks suck, so ditch the soft springs in favor of some from Sonic, or similar, and you won't ever have to monkey around with air again.
And for a master, consider modernizing. The Kawasaki EX650 rectangular master is what I used. It's 5/8" bore, which is same as OEM, and has the outlet port in a convenient place for clearance. You can find clean examples off ebay for cheap.
P1010705 by nessism , on Flickr
Regards,
SnyperX
====================
1981 KZ750H2 LTD
SnyperX
====================
1981 KZ750H2 LTD
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Re: Banjo Fitting Issue After Bar Swap
17 Dec 2024 08:24Look for the rectangular version, like mine. It has a mirror boss and is 5/8" bore. There is a different version, where the reservoir is sort of rounded off on a couple of sides. Don't get that one.Ness, what year for the EX650 MC or does it not really matter as long as it has the banjo bolt exiting the front?I make my own brake lines from Earl's parts. My rebuild thread shows how to build them. It's easy, and cheaper than purchasing premade lines, in most cases. Pick whatever hose ends you need for clearance.
Regarding the air valve, air forks suck, so ditch the soft springs in favor of some from Sonic, or similar, and you won't ever have to monkey around with air again.
And for a master, consider modernizing. The Kawasaki EX650 rectangular master is what I used. It's 5/8" bore, which is same as OEM, and has the outlet port in a convenient place for clearance. You can find clean examples off ebay for cheap.
P1010705 by nessism , on Flickr
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