TOPIC:

Hi Folks,
I'm getting my 1982 Spectre 1100 back on the road. The first thing I changed was the seat. I had it refoamed and re covered to eliminate the lowered operator position. I now have a bench seat that allows me to sit anywhere I like.
My next revision will be to swap out the buck horn mini ape bars for something that doesn't cause me to bend my wrists down at an uncomfortable angle. I don't mind the height but I want a bar that presents a straighter pull. Any suggestions?
That brings me to my real issue. The front forks are leaking and I'd like to understand how these forks come off the triple clamps before I attempt removing them. I've replaced forks seals plenty of times but I've never worked on a set of forks that have that balance air tube just above the lower triple clamp. Just how do you slide the fork tubes out of the triple clamps with that air tube that is apparently connected to the side of the upper/inner fork tube?
I'd appreciated any input from a member who's ventured here before.
Thanks
Bill/KZQ

I've never done that type of forks, but the diagrams should help. and EB pics.
The air assy slides onto the fork tubes which have holes drilled into them >> the air assy fits over the holes & is sealed with o-rings.  
I didn't look for the 1100 stuff on EB, but there are some ZX750 forks that show the holes.
The o-rings probably will be stuck to the tubes, so you might want to spray something to help break the bond. 
After loosening the fork clamps and maybe removing some stuff, I'd try twisting the tubes. 

1982 KZ1100-D2 Spectre >> www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawasaki/motor...front-fork-kz1100-d2

1983 ZX750-A1 >> www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawasaki/motor...-zx750-a1/front-fork

1985 ZN1300-A3 Voyager >> www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawasaki/motor...zn1300-a3/front-fork

I just did mine recently , but it's from 82 KZ/GPz750. Anyway, Yeah, if you never touch the balancer, it's a pretty good chance that it's probably bind/stuck to the tube. I've used Kroil to loosen it up. Give it more than a few twist. Just keep shooting it with your favorite lubricant until you're satisfy. When you're comfortable how loose it is, just pull it out. Mine had fairly new o-ring so I had to keep shooting with Kroil.

Be careful with that air holes in the tube. make sure they are at the top of the rotation or you're going to have a messy oil spill. I usually shoot the area with brake cleaner as soon as I see the hole, and just use duct tape to cover the hole. When you're ready to re-install them, I take the tape off, clean the area with acetone or something, just to make sure I don't have any tape residue.