What's causing my brakes to not snap back?

I have a old 1981 kz250 single just wondering if the spring has gone bad or maybe I need grease. Attaching a video to explain
 

No video.

If you are talking about the rear brake, a common problem is rust and crud in the foot lever pivot. Disconnect the rod to the rear brake and see if the lever moves freely. If not, it needs to be removed so all the crud and rust can be removed, then the pivot should be lightly greased before reassembly.

Agree with TexasKZ.  Brake pedals can be difficult to remove if the pivot rusted badly.  Penetrating oil & patience always works. A drop or two of oil every season will keep them working freely.

In addition, there is the shaft that passes through the brake backing plate that rotates a few degrees when the brake pedal is pressed.  If it's the original factory grease, that grease has likely become very stiff & sticky with age.  Remove the shaft from the backing plate, clean the shaft and the bushing it passes through on the backing plate.  Lube the shaft, bushing & large pin the brake shoes pivot on.with brake grease & reassemble.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

Sorry for the late response guys gonna attach a video YouTube short link here.

Having issues with it not wanting to move but also my wire seems to be too long!

youtube.com/shorts/Cu4hRTzdZd0?si=DaSa2Buw83zBTe_3

The cable looks pretty dry. I would make sure everything is clean, properly lubricated, and properly adjusted. 

the lever pivot needs to be clean and lubed, the cable and its ends need proper lubrication.

The shaft going into the drum needs to be clean and lubricated, as do the cams inside the drum. 

Light grease for the pivot screw, cable ends, the shaft, and a thin film on the cams. Cable lube spray for the cable. Motion Pro makes a really handy tool for the cable lube that will prevent a large mess.

If you do not know for sure that the brake shoes are fairly new, throw them away, no matter how much lining remains. The adhesive deteriorates with age. If the lining comes loose while you are at speed, the results can be catastrophic. 

Finally, make sure all of the adjustments have been done according to the factory service manual.

I don’t recall seeing a KZ250 with a twin leading shoe front brake. As I recall, the KZ440 had one, but I believe  its linkage was below the axle.

Strip and clean all parts, front hub mech, lever and cable. Check each part works as it should individually. I.e. does the cable move freely when it's not connected to anything. Rebuild it, testing after each stage. I.e. does the cable move freely when it's in the lever.
The problem can only be crap.........unless the shoes are so worn that the cam is turning too far.

Echoing the previous comments.  The brakes probably need basic maintenance and the brake shoes ought to be replaced if you don't know how old they are.  The adhesive that binds the linings to the shoes can fail over time, so a lining can separate from a shoe, then get jammed between the shoe and drum, locking a wheel. It happened to me so it does happen. In your case with dual drum brakes (Fr drum & Rr drum), locking the front wheel would be bad, possibly deadly.  As for the maintenance, be sure to use brake grease, applied in the appropriate areas. Don't get any on the braking material (drum & shoes).  I use permatex ultra in the little packets:  you won't need much.  The front brake cable may need replacing as well.  This is all basic maintenance.
one little packet could last years. I think it now comes in a tiny tube.