TOPIC:

1981 KZ750H LTD

the front wheel bearings needed replaced badly, so I bought a set from All Balls Racing. P# 25-1310. Went to install them today and everything went pretty smooth​​​​​​. Press fit, nothing fought me too badly. I get the C clips reinstalled and try to turn each of the bearing centers by hand and they are both locked down tight. These bearings are sealed on both sides while the others weren’t. I think it has to do with the rod guide that is put in the center of the hub but I am uncertain. I have no idea how to remove them without destroying them. Everything was reassembled exactly as it came apart. Any suggestions as to what went wrong?

It sounds like they are in too tight, when you say "press-fit" what sort of pressure did you apply (I would normally drift these bearings in with a tube or socket and a copper mallet) you could try a tube or socket on the inner race and give it a "love kiss" with a hammer to relieve the side loading against the centre spacer. You will struggle to remove them without damage 

I did almost exactly like you said, used a socket that rode on the outer race. Didn’t use a copper mallet though, just an Estwing framing hammer. I have tried to tap both sides of the outer races and no avail. Also used a socket to lightly tap the inner races to possibly jar something free and no avail. 

wrote:

I did almost exactly like you said, used a socket that rode on the outer race. Didn’t use a copper mallet though, just an Estwing framing hammer. I have tried to tap both sides of the outer races and no avail. Also used a socket to lightly tap the inner races to possibly jar something free and no avail. 

When I say a "love kiss" I mean a short sharp smack rather than a tap. If you look closely I suspect one of the bearings will have a small gap between it and the "C" clip, it's the inner race from the opposite side that needs the love to try and move the opposite bearing out slightly against the "C" clip. Obviously it's not ideal to treat bearings this way but a decent quality ball race should take it and the options are limited. I only use a mallet as I prefer not to put shock waves through hardened components like bearings

With most wheels, the cavity for the bearing is designed of appropriate depth such that when driving in the bearing, you are to do so until the bearing bottoms in the cavity.  NOT SO with KZ wheels, though.  You need to watch the depth which you drive the bearing; drive it just until it's deep enough to get the snap ring installed, and no deeper.  Do the side opposite the speedo gear first, then go to the other side.  If the center collar is moving back and forth too much, after the snap rings are installed, then you can go a smig deeper, but watch it so you don't over drive the bearing.

BTW, don't ask me how I learned this...

Nessism, i was driving them like I do every other bearing, till it seats and the sound of the hammer thwack changes. Is there any way to push a bearing out to make more clearance? I can’t get a screwdriver to catch on the inner race of the bearing when I go through the hub. 

wookie, I Know what you meant by tap, just enough that it gets the idea but not too much where it could damage something. 

The spacer tube between the inner bearing races limit the install of bearing depth. Drift punching the bearing in only on the outer race give some extra tention to the bearing and remove the bearing play. This can inhibit or lock the smooth runnig of the bearings.The bearing have to drift punched with a stem that cover both surfaces of the inner and outer races equal to get  and hold the right play until the bearing seats. Only so you will get the right play and a smooth running.

I use a 12” length of 3/8” brass bar. I have been able to insert the bar into the hub and slowly gently pry the center spacer tube off center enough the catch the inner race, then as Wookie states a few sharp strikes and the bearing will move just enough to free the spacer tube and allow the bearing to be drifted out. 

Sorry to all but I have removed the bearing. I was “gently” tapping the bearing on the inner race and the inner race is no more. Ended up pushing it far enough to permanently damage the inner race. I had to disassemble the bearing while it was still in the hub and carefully cut the outer race with a dremel to release the tension on it. Both bearings are out and a new bearing set is on its way already. Not proud of the job but it’s a $18 mistake and it’s not the worst one I’ve had. The new one will be here Thursday so maybe Thursday or Friday I will update you all with any progress. 

Update to all who care, new bearings are in and they spin much more freely than the locked up ones. I have since reinstalled the wheel and need to do another fork and wheel alignment to true up the wheel once again. Thank you for everyone’s suggestions!