Z1R - self-cancelling turn signal junction for speedometer cable not turning

Hi. My speedometer suddenly died and discovered the cable was broken down at the wheel. So today I installed a new inner cable (pulled out from a whole new cable) and hooked up the speedometer cable to the junction where the self-cancelling electrical connection sits between the cable and the bottom of the speedometer.
But after a 10-yard ride the new cable broke. I determined the upper junction cable was not spinning so that's why the new cable broke.
My questions:
- should there be a short cable from the junction to the bottom of the speedometer? Looks like I have a very short section of inner cable.
- should the inner wire run all the way up into the speedometer or stop at the junction?
- should the inside part of the junction spin freely? Mine doesn't.

I don't even see this junction piece on the parts list.

What you're calling the junction I believe is the speed sensor for the self-canceling system.  It's a small part that screws onto the input shaft of the speedo, with two wires coming out.  You should be able to remove this part.  It has a female socket on the input side that the speedo cable plugs in to, and a very short male cable side that fits into the speedo.  Assuming the speedo cable is long enough, you should be able to remove the speed sensor and just screw the speedo cable directly into the speedo. 

- should there be a short cable from the junction to the bottom of the speedometer? Looks like I have a very short section of inner cable.

Yes, it's only about maybe 3/4" long? It sticks out of the side that threads onto the speedo.

- should the inner wire run all the way up into the speedometer or stop at the junction?

The inner wire of the speedometer cable fits into a square socket on the bottom of the speed sensor.  It does not pass through the speed sensor.

- should the inside part of the junction spin freely? Mine doesn't.

Yes, absolutely.  It's supposed to turn.  There is a magnetic disk inside the speed sensor, mounted on a short axle that should spin freely.  The speed sensor can be disassembled by removing two screws.  I've taken them apart and cleaned them in the past.  However I've never seen one that is seized, so yours might not look so good on the inside.

There is also a glass body reed switch inside the sensor.  This switch opens and closes as the magnetic disk poles move past it.  These reed switches are easy to break so take care.  If you find that it's broken, you can probably get a replacement.  But again, since your sensor seems to be seized, you might find other problems inside as well.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reed_switch

www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawasaki/motor...ical-equipment-78-d1

Item #35

 

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationHere is a picture:

Hey I really appreciate your feedback.
I ordered the part from aBay. 

Don't know why but mine suddenly froze solid and that caused it to snap the new cable I inserted. Now I'm just waiting for the part to arrive from the Netherlands (?).

 

Glad I could help.  Have you tried to disassemble yours?  I'd be interested to know why yours seized up.  It might be fixable.

Sorry I didn't get back online for a long time.
I pulled it apart and cannot see what the problem was but I can tell this part was broken when I bought the bike.
I'm just glad that some people have this available on ebay.
I'll update this link once I get the replacement.

I installed the part from Germany and bongo works like new.
However the seller on ebay claimed it was NOS and it was clearly NOT - used and discolored. But it worked.
When I compared it to what was on my bike I can see my original part was butchered and a piece of speedo cable inserted. It was a bad half-baked repair job.
The replacement part makes the self-cancelling turn signals function as they should.
THANK you for pointing out this part on the parts diagram.

Congratulations.  I'm glad it's working now.  The self-canceling is pretty handy when it's working.  I like it.

Mine was really messed up.  I had to rebuild the release solenoid in the left switch block and also replace the control box.