Welcome, Guest
Username: Password: Remember me
  • Page:
  • 1
  • 2

TOPIC:

KZ900 Front Brakes 03 May 2021 06:32 #847912

  • Lebowski
  • Lebowski's Avatar Topic Author
  • Offline
  • User
  • Posts: 6
  • Thank you received: 1

Just a heads up, I'm not sure i'd use those old invader wheels on a Z900, apart from being heavy, they were prone to crack where the spokes meet the rim.....

 

What's the story on these wheels? I haven't seen them on any other KZ bikes that I've looked at. When I get some more money I may trade them out, but for now I'll just be cruising around the neighborhood.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

KZ900 Front Brakes 03 May 2021 09:22 #847924

  • Mikaw
  • Mikaw's Avatar
  • Offline
  • Sustaining Member
  • Posts: 2629
  • Thank you received: 648
A couple factors to determine whether you mount leading or trailing. The lower fork tube, and the caliper mount bracket, and the hose/pipe. The calipers are non handed, until you get into the calipers that have the bleed screw that  put the bleed screw pointing up, then that hands the caliper.  The bracket you have is either leading RH or trailing LH. Typical for the Kz900 is leading LH. KHI use both for years on the same size bikes, IE the Kz900 “A” models were leading brakes.  With a factory option to add dual calipers, keeping them in the same orientation. The Kz900 LTD used trailing brakes, in a dual caliper setup. Personally I don’t know if there is any performance advantage. 
1976 KZ 900 A4 kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/613548-1976-kz-900-a4
1976 KZ 900 B1 LTD
1978 KZ 1000 B2 LTD
Kowledge Speaks, But Wisdom Listens.
Jimi Hendrix.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Last edit: by Mikaw.

KZ900 Front Brakes 03 May 2021 10:09 #847926

  • Mikaw
  • Mikaw's Avatar
  • Offline
  • Sustaining Member
  • Posts: 2629
  • Thank you received: 648
Maybe this will show what I tried to describe about the bleeder screws.

This is a non handed caliper. Used on the Kz900 “A” ,  LTD and the Kz1000 “A’s” 



Here is a handed used on the Kz1000 LTD models.

 
1976 KZ 900 A4 kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/613548-1976-kz-900-a4
1976 KZ 900 B1 LTD
1978 KZ 1000 B2 LTD
Kowledge Speaks, But Wisdom Listens.
Jimi Hendrix.
Attachments:

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

KZ900 Front Brakes 03 May 2021 15:31 #847944

  • 750 R1
  • 750 R1's Avatar
  • Offline
  • User
  • Posts: 525
  • Thank you received: 123

Just a heads up, I'm not sure i'd use those old invader wheels on a Z900, apart from being heavy, they were prone to crack where the spokes meet the rim.....



 

What's the story on these wheels? I haven't seen them on any other KZ bikes that I've looked at. When I get some more money I may trade them out, but for now I'll just be cruising around the neighborhood.

Just google "invader wheels broken welds"   they aren't something I'd take a risk on..   There's stories of broken invaders all over the net...

i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc151/BlueCo...ris/invaderwheel.jpg

i120.photobucket.com/albums/o175/DannyF_...rtwo/invadercopy.jpg

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Last edit: by 750 R1.

KZ900 Front Brakes 04 May 2021 06:49 #847978

  • slmjim+Z1BEBE
  • slmjim+Z1BEBE's Avatar
  • Offline
  • User
  • Enjoy Life! IT HAS AN EXPIRATION DATE!
  • Posts: 800
  • Thank you received: 347

Lebowski post=847911Thanks Scirocco. German website is the only option for these rings? Expensive as hell!

Is there a preference on whether the brakes should be front or rear mounted on the front wheel? I've seen both. I have the forks arranged for a front mount, which looks better to me.

slmjim read an article by Kevin Cameron a lonnnggg time ago about caliper in front (leading side) vs caliper on rear (trailing side) of fork legs.  Let's see if he can remember the essence:
Briefly, it has to do with the physics of placing a mass (calipers) closer to or farther away from the steering stem axis (pivot) of the fork legs when the fork legs are considered as a lever and pendulum. 
Consider the forks as a lever (pendulum) that pivots around the axis of the steering stem.



  A mass farther away from the steering axis as projected through the steering head (on the leading side of the fork legs in this case) will effectively be weight on a longer lever (distance from the steering axis to the calipers' mass=longer lever), exacerbating the effect of inertia, increasing steering effort & possibly contributing to fork oscillation (the pendulum effect) that might result in a tank slapper.  Mass on the trailing side of the fork legs will be much closer to the steering axis (much shorter lever/pendulum), reducing the relative effect of the same mass when the forks are considered as a lever, much negating the effect of the mass of the calipers on the pendulum effect.  Not necessarily much of an issue on street bikes unless prone to tank slappers anyway, KC's article dealt with the effects re: race bikes of the day.  I think that catches the essence.

We recently bought a parts lot that has two of what we think are the same calipers, but we don't know what the came off of.  If you're in CONUS, we'd be happy to send a dust seal ring if you're unable to source one locally.

We've dealt with creeping crud in Z1 calipers & MC's for decades.  We usually use a dremel too, with a very small, very fine stainless steel wire brush to gently clean the caliper seal groove.  We then use a Q-tip to wipe a coat of white brake grease into the piston seal groove prior to inserting the seal.  The grease behind the seal helps prevent slow weeping of brake fluid.  If you're seeing a rapid leak that prevents building pressure, follow the advice in previous posts as an outright leak indicates something not

Posts above have good advice in installing seals.  Note that some caliper piston seals are very slightly asymmetrical on the side that contacts the piston. That is, not perfectly square.  If so, the 'taller' edge should face away from the disk, or toward the bleeder hole bore in the caliper's piston bore.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE
A biker looks at your engine and chrome.
A Rider looks at your odometer and tags.

1973 Z1 x2
1973 Z1 "The Wounded Z" (For Sale)
1974 Z1-A x2
1975 Z1-B x2
1993 CB 750 Nighthawk x2
2009 ST1300A

www.kawasaki-z-classik.com
An enthusiast's forum focused exclusively
on all things Z1, Z2 and KZ900.

Attachments:
The following user(s) said Thank You: z1kzonly

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Last edit: by slmjim+Z1BEBE. Reason: Clarity

KZ900 Front Brakes 04 May 2021 09:07 #847990

  • z1kzonly
  • z1kzonly's Avatar
  • Offline
  • User
  • Sustaining Member
  • Posts: 2677
  • Thank you received: 369
Hey Jim, great article again. I am right in the middle of questioning this. I'm putting a 1/8 mile drag strip beater bike together. I took the dual discs off to run 1. That tank slapper explanation is going to make me put the single disc caliper on the rear trailing. The bike has 2 stock Kaw steering dampers with reinforced welded stock brackets for the reflectors. Just makes sense to keep the weight to the back. But at 63 If I run this bike a few times, don't want no tank slapper going 100 mph shutting down. Plus I did not rake the neck at all, wanted too, but no time, just want it done and running. Has a 1197, .435 webb cams, 38 Lectrons. Paul Gast built it, dynoed at 126 hp. from the previous owner who has since passed away. Too many other projects. Just another day!
Livin in "CheektaVegas, NY
Still have a Kaw! 76 KZ900 Pro-Street.
Went thru 25 of these in 40 yrs.

And The Old Girl, Harley 75 FLH Electra Glide,
Old faithful! Points ign. Bendix Orig. carb.
Starts everytime!

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

  • Page:
  • 1
  • 2
Powered by Kunena Forum