Help....can anyone identify the forks/rear swingarm on this Kawasaki streetfight

I just took a closer look at the pictures, and I would definitely replace the chain and sprockets. Also, there are some marks on the fork inner tubes that I would take a careful look at to be sure the forks are usable. It would also be a good idea to look a the upper shock mount to insure that it is well designed and properly welded. I also see quite a few rusty fasteners.

wrote:

 ps. its been a while since iv posted, what happened to the spell check feature? im dead in the water without it....
 

If you look at the tool bar that is just above the text box where you type your reply, you will see a button with ABC and a checkmark. Click it to enable the spell check.

wrote:

If you like the direction the previous owner took with the modifications, then he may have saved you a good bit of money. Still, since it has been off the road so long, you will be facing all of the routine maintenance, rebuilding the carbs, a new battery and new tires at the very least. It may also need new drive chain and sprockets, the hydraulics may need rebuilding, and unless you can closely inspect it, you will be gambling that the engine is ok. How much are you willing to gamble?

***


yea,  thats what I'm evaluating in my head...I have been wanting to build a resto-mod KZ,  and this bike does have some "upgraded" componentry,  relative to the 1976 KZ900....I wish the forks/swingar/shocks were off a newer model,  and I realize upgrading with those parts are not cheap...for the donor parts,  and fab work....if I had my druthers,  I would have liked at least mid-90s GSXR parts,  or early 2000-mid 2000 ZX kawaski forks/swingarm/wheels.   I also realize there is risk in buying a bike that isnt running...yea,  the purple paint is hideoous to me too...I would have painted the bike black....so I'm on a fence.....I'm thinking  $2000.00 offering him...he is asking $2900.00,  which I think is high...    Otherwise,  I know someone with a resto-mod nicely done,  and the price tag is almost $9000.00, and the bike has been done right....


 

Thanks Texas, id be lust without spell check, us Irish dunt speal so guod. If 2000 is you bench mark then offer 1800, every bit you save can go back into it. Dont fool yourself into thinking that it wont bleed you dry but save the pennies to spend the pounds. From someone who has mono shocked bikes before, ill never do it again and in fact im returning my 75 Z1 back to dual shocks. I also bought a gpz1100 B1 that was a mono shock conversion that ill be returning back to dual shock.

Just noticed a fairly suspect looking hydraulic clutch mounted to the outside of the sprocket cover, make sure you have a working clutch.

wrote:

Wheels and swingarm im sure are off a 1986 gsx-r750 the rest are off a gpz 1000rx like 750r1 said. Buy it sell all the other parts to collectors who would appreciate  them and start afresh. Has the shock mounts been cut off? ps. its been a while since iv posted, what happened to the spell check feature? im dead in the water without it....


Check the profile of the tyre's KZ,  the large profile gives them away, they are 16 inch wheels, very similar looking to early GSXR but they are definitely GPZ1000rx wheels {gixxer are 18's} , the OP has also used the 1000rx forks as well as the 1000rx  front and rear brakes.     The hydraulic clutch is a common mod , looks like he maybe using a GSXR hydraulic unit, its a relatively easy conversion, I have one of those GSXR units laying around in my shop somewhere, I was going to use it on a 750 honda but sold the bike......

yea ,I was wondering about the cable going to the sprocket cover,  what the hell that was...so its a hydraulic clutch conversion...  Regarding the 16 inch wheels,  what is the consensus here...16 inch wheels better or worse than the 18 inch wheels?    Pros/cons of 16 inch wheels vs 18 inch wheels?        I like the look to this bike...I'm just on the fence...not sure if I should jump on it or not...

wrote:

Thanks Texas, id be lust without spell check, us Irish dunt speal so guod. If 2000 is you bench mark then offer 1800, every bit you save can go back into it. Dont fool yourself into thinking that it wont bleed you dry but save the pennies to spend the pounds. From someone who has mono shocked bikes before, ill never do it again and in fact im returning my 75 Z1 back to dual shocks. I also bought a gpz1100 B1 that was a mono shock conversion that ill be returning back to dual shock.

***

Interesting to hear KZstreetfighter 71,  that you dont like the uni shock conversion....what have you found to be the biggest complaint?      As I was mentioning....I'd like to build a KZ restomod,  and I've seen great KZ's upgraded with both unishock, and twin shock....I really like the twin shock builds by Sanctuary in Japan ....I think it would be sweet to get one of those swingarms,  with the twin ohlins shocks in rear....I'd like to hear your take on unishock versus twin shocks.....thanks in advance. 
 

The LTD models had 16 inch rears, we didn't get many of that model in Australia. The early Kawasaki models had an 18 inch rear and a 19 inch front. To fit standard size wheels , you'd have to make up spacers and maybe do a wheel bearing swap and work out brakes, or change out the entire front and rear ends. 16 inch wheels on the front were an 80's thing, they ended settling on 17's further down the track. I'm not to sure the guy that fitted those parts had his mind on correct geometry.  I suppose it all depends on how cheap you can get the bike for, and how handy you are at working on it, there's a bit of work to put it back to standard, the easiest way would be to go back to all stock parts. That would mean a stock swingarm, stock wheels, stock forks, stock brakes, and all the necessary spacers and so on. If it was me personally, I'd want to ride the thing, it could handle like a pig, {longer wheelbase, smaller wheels}, its a big job and lots of money to go back to stock, if you like the way it rides ? I don't know, its up to you. The pros and cons of 16 versus 18 inch wheels is better tire selection for 18/19, or 18/18, 16's tended to feel the bumps a bit more too, due to a smaller rolling circumference...