- Posts: 27
- Thank you received: 2
GPz 750 ut A2 Anti Dive upper plunger unit
- kawural
- Topic Author
- Offline
- User
- never touch a running system
my GPz 750 is suffering from seized Anti Dive Plunger Units (the upper unit pressed by the brake). Unfortunately this part is sold out and not a/v anymore from Kawa.
Since I dont want to put anti dive out of service entirely I was wondering if there is any way to overhaul the plunger and make the little piston movable again.
Tried WD 40 overnight with little success but the piston is still far from moving freely as it should.
Any ideas or hints on how to fix or where to get substitue?
Can the unit be dismantled somehow ?
Responses welcome
THX in advance
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- martin_csr
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 8019
- Thank you received: 1645
The anti-dive info is in the 1983 supplement section. The manual says do not disassemble the anit-dive unit & there's a test for the brake plunger, but any fixes require parts replacement, so you may have to try some disassembly, then use your own judgement.
Note: do not contaminate the brake fluid. Also, regular wd40 isn't really a penetrant, so you may need to try an actual penetrant.
I use the Liquid Wrench brand which has done good in several tests floating around the internet.
750turbo.com >>> Downloads >>> choose Full manual (128mb PDF) .
80-85 750-4 chain drive manual. Yellow/gold cover w color wiring diagrams. 1980-84 KZ750-4 & KZ700. 1983-85 ZX750.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- 650ed
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 15343
- Thank you received: 2829
martin_csr wrote: ................Note: do not contaminate the brake fluid. Also, regular wd40 isn't really a penetrant, so you may need to try an actual penetrant..
Exactly! WD40 is "Water Displacement 40th" formula. Using it to free up parts that are frozen in place is pretty much a waste of time. It works ok for its designed purpose, but that purpose is displacing water. For freeing up parts that are frozen together Kroil works extremely well. However, I don't know what effect Kroil might have on brake fluid friendly parts. Of course that's also true for WD40. Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- martin_csr
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 8019
- Thank you received: 1645
Liquid Wrench brand is probably still better, readily available & usually cheaper than the wd stuff.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- kawural
- Topic Author
- Offline
- User
- never touch a running system
- Posts: 27
- Thank you received: 2
What is the exact brand name of the penetrants you mention?
I havent seen those here in Europe yet.
MT
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- kawural
- Topic Author
- Offline
- User
- never touch a running system
- Posts: 27
- Thank you received: 2
Cant wait to test it.
thx for help!
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Rick H.
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 840
- Thank you received: 241
Rick H.
Rick H.
1977 Kawasaki KZ-1000A1
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- martin_csr
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 8019
- Thank you received: 1645
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- 650ed
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 15343
- Thank you received: 2829
Rick H. wrote: Kroil is terrific stuff, but you must give it time to work. It is not an instant work stuff. I have used it for many years just don't expect it to work in a flash. If I have something that's really stuck or rusted it may take a couple of days to let Kroil do its magic.
Rick H.
Excellent point! On fasteners that were really stuck on my bike I soaked them with Kroil for 3 days, and I reapplied it each day. After that there was no problem removing the fasteners. Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- riturbo
- Offline
- Sustaining Member
- Posts: 745
- Thank you received: 278
Gpz 750 turbo The one I ride
Gpz 750 turbo Not finished
Gpz 750 turbo Not started
Gpz 550 1981
Gpz 550 1983
Bunch of other junk
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- kawural
- Topic Author
- Offline
- User
- never touch a running system
- Posts: 27
- Thank you received: 2
Either way, next I will try out the penetrant to be delivered this week and we ll see.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- kawural
- Topic Author
- Offline
- User
- never touch a running system
- Posts: 27
- Thank you received: 2
Eventually I managed to dismantle the Anti Dive's lower and upper unit completely, overhauled and reassambled it.
The plungers are now movable again under finger pressure as they should.
Will bolt on to the fork next weekend an dthen will see.
In fact dismantling is easier than expected (if you know how). Took me a good while to figure.
Lower Unit:
Ordered a resealing kit from GPZzone in the UK. It comes with all required sealings and O-rings and a new spring + a pretty good description.
So the lower unit is no problem to refurbish. Takes 30 min.
Upper unit:
Unfortunately, the above kit from GPZzone doesnt contain any parts for the upper unit (the one pressed by the brake) and the description keeps quiet on it.
I realized eventually there is a thread and the plunger unit can be unscrewed using a bolt with 14 mm wrench size. Just drilled a 6mm hole into the head of the bolt and with this it can be used as a kind of allen key to unscrew the unit (see picture).
The inner rubber O-Ring was seized a bid on account of debris and what not but no sign of corrosion. In lack of a new O-ring I cleaned everthing carefully made the plunger movable with a tin coat of silicon grease and that was pretty much it.
I am a happy man so far locking forward to undertake the ultimate road test ...
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.