TOPIC:

if you don't want to weld to the frame you can bolt bushings to the triple tree. I did it on my 86 GSXR that had the factory stops broken off. works good, might work on your GPZ

Hmmm, I guess i won't be able to tell how much clearance I need exactly until the shaft collar comes.

Happen to know if shaft collars come in thicker sizes that would provide me less clearance? kinda like a fender washer?

The spec on a 5/8" shaft collar is pretty consistent. I checked your link before you ordered and it was the correct thickness. The OD is 1-1/8" which is what you want.

The 550 stops are underneath the triple clamp, so it's not easy working under there, and the clamp stops are not round pegs, they are sorta like curved fingers. It would be tough to drill and tap a removable appendage there. You could maybe drill through the main frame peg/stop to make a removable stop.

In case the shaft collar doesn't work, the Japanese custom scene atm uses something similar that I could use.
also a set that torques right onto the curved armatures.

runs about $30 but at that point it would be worth it

Hey Lou,

Just got the shaft collars in the mail, put it on and put it all the way to lock and it looks like my clip-ons will still be able to be at the angle I want with minimal compromise.
I'll put them on this weekend and update with pics.

Also, I have found some short Z1 clutch/ throttle cables in the japanese market. Your custom cables run 1184.3mm - 1190.6mm. These short cables say they run 10cm shorter than stock. so from the stock z1 cable (i think its 1282.7mm) will put the short z1 cable at 1182.7mm!

do you think the 1.6mm difference wouldnt fit well when my clip-ons have a raise to them? might have to lower them..., till then I can just run the looped stock cables.

very excited.

Thanks again

Is the free length the same? If the free length is shorter by 1.6mm you can probably still get it to work without much trouble.

If the cable housing's effective length is longer, and thus the cable free length is shorter significantly, you will probably have to modify something to get it to work.

Howdy!

Got it done today, and I have to say... very pleased. Clutch nor throttle cables look weird but also work smoothly.

did not have to change brake line position either, which saved me a lot of trouble.
Had the clutch cable completely off because I originally was hoping stock routing would work. but unfortunately did not and I ended up adjusting the ball bearing plate way too far and had to put it back together ( thanks to the clutch adj resource on your page lou.)

Had a lot of fun putting it together, but got brutal once the sun started beating on me.

Only issue with my clutch routing now is not that big a deal but when steered all the way left that cable tightens up making it slightly harder to pull. pics below (excuse me gross looking headers...)

Took it for a ride to get the clutch adjusted the way I want it, and man I felt soooo cool.


I'd like to thank everyone who pitched their opinions in here and helped me out. I'm very grateful for this forum.
You'll be seeing me in the later on a different thread for a 4 into 1 exhaust jetting

Thanks for the update! Glad it worked out.