1980 kz750h forks

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20 Aug 2018 09:08 #789397 by LoCette1210
1980 kz750h forks was created by LoCette1210
Hey all. So, i have a 1980 kz750h 4 cylinder rebuild project and i want to put different forks on her. I've done some internet searching but am having trouble finding compatible ones. I don't want to replace the ones i have with used ones that could potentially have the same issues . I want to put new parts on her. Does anyone have any suggestions, or know of compatible front forks. Thank you.

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20 Aug 2018 10:37 #789402 by Nessism

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20 Aug 2018 12:35 - 20 Aug 2018 12:41 #789409 by martin_csr
Replied by martin_csr on topic 1980 kz750h forks
Probably the only option for new forks is to try to get nos parts on eebbaayy kind of piecemeal, but that would get prohibitively expensive & could take a while. I doubt that there are any modern forks that will swap. What's typically done is to swap the entire front end, but even that usually takes some doing, such as to get the donor triple tree machined to fit the steering head..

I refurbished my forks and installed new K&L fork seals & used Belray fork oil from Z1Enterprises.com. Some guys prefer oem seals.
Duplicolor silver wheel paint then top-coated w clear wheel paint. but you don't really need paint the forks. I probably won't next time.
Last edit: 20 Aug 2018 12:41 by martin_csr.
The following user(s) said Thank You: LoCette1210

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23 Aug 2018 22:58 #789664 by LoCette1210
Replied by LoCette1210 on topic 1980 kz750h forks
The bolt at the bottom is stripped so it won't come out. I got new seals and was going to replace them and ran into that issue. Thanks.

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24 Aug 2018 05:22 #789668 by 650ed
Replied by 650ed on topic 1980 kz750h forks
You may want to take it to a machinist and have him remove it. That would probably be much less expensive than replacing the forks. Ed

1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)

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24 Aug 2018 05:23 - 24 Aug 2018 14:30 #789669 by martin_csr
Replied by martin_csr on topic 1980 kz750h forks
Is the bolt head stripped or the threads? If the threads are fine, there are ways of removing the bolts, but I've never had to deal with that.

In case you aren't aware, the head of the inner cylinder damper rod looks just like a 12-pt 19mm socket, so you'd need a tool to fit into it.
I use a LH-threaded bolt & nut along with a socket & ratchet extensions. a 1/2" bolt that a 3/4" wrench fits will work. 3/4" = 19.05 mm.


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Last edit: 24 Aug 2018 14:30 by martin_csr.

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