custom hollow axle

I have this spare 20mm GSXR750 axle Id like to use. Its hollow and weighs half of what my solid ones does. The problem is its too long. The end where the threads are is swagged to 18mm. If i cut this portion off and cut 20mm threads on the main shaft I think the wall thickness will be like 1-2mm thick in the minor thread, so I don't think I can realistically do that. I'm thinking about cutting off the hex head, trimming it to length, and soldering on a new hex. I will pin the hex to the shaft as well for safety's sake. I found this solder which is very low heat (430F/221C) so I believe I should be able to solder the nut on there without removing the temper.
www.harrisproductsgroup.com/en/Products/.../Stay-Brite-Kit.aspx

Is this a bad idea?

That would make me a little nervous. I do not have any personal experience with that particular alloy, but I wonder if the tensile strength of the joint would be enough to withstand the stress of that application. Not only is the axle nut torqued to a pretty high value, there is quite a bit of vibration when in use. Perhaps you could make a test mule to find out how strong the joint would be before going on the road with it.

How about a spaacer on each end?
Steve

It would look weird with a spacer sticking out. the solid one is already about 1/2" too long so the hollow one is about 1.5" too long. After talking to some people who are way smarter than me, they said welding would be preferable to solder, and that it would be fine as long as I used 309L for the filler as I am going to use a stainless nut. I will feel better about this than the solder.

Yes solder is not for use here...... The trick will be to keep the face of the hex perpendicular to the axle shaft...
Also address the diameter of the hole in the chain adjuster to the diameter of the weld on the hex surface, chamfer the hole to clear the welds, so the contact is against the surface of the hex, so as not to induce stresses in the weld when torquing the axle nut.

Im going to machine a deep chamfer on the nut ID so that the weld sits flush, then I'm going to throw the axle in the lathe to true up the mating surface once it's welded.

SWest wrote: How about a spaacer on each end?
Steve

+1...lathe 'em up to shape so that they double as bobbins for a rear stand

You may be aware of this already, but you can buy hollow chromolly axles (and pivot) from japan.webike.net.

They are a bit pricey, but you'd save some time. Of course, it's a bit hard to figure out exactly which one to order.

japan.webike.net/products/21313452.html

www.jb-power.co.jp/parts/list/shaft.html

They carry at least two other brands of the same type of axle as well.

DOHC wrote: You may be aware of this already, but you can buy hollow chromolly axles (and pivot) from japan.webike.net.


japan.webike.net/products/21313452.html



www.jb-power.co.jp/parts/list/shaft.html

138 BUCKS not bad!!!! Glad you pointed them out. I can never find anything on their site when I look for something.

Guess I will have to make a few trips to the blood bank before I can afford one for my MK. II!!!

It sucks being poor!!!

Those are very nice but a bit spendy for me. I already had the GSXR axle sitting on the shelf. The fancy nuts are the most expensive part at $16 a pop.

Ooo, sexy!