Rear brake pedal and switch return springs

Just noticed that both the rear brake pedal return spring, as well as the spring connecting the rear brake switch are missing on my 81 CSR. Does anybody know the correct installation method for this, or could provide a picture of theirs installed? For whatever reason, no matter how I install both springs, there is a ton of slack between the springs and brake, and neither spring will hold onto their mounts. I also have already adjusted the position of the brake to no avail. Any thoughts or photos would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Do you have the correct brake pedal return spring? .... In good condition, not stretched or damaged?
Partzilla has a photo of it.

One end of the return spring fits in the groove of the stud on the RH muffler stay. The other end fits into the br pedal shaft hole that's nearest to the br pedal. Also, there's a br pedal stop that keeps the br pedal in position in relation to the foot rest.

The br light switch spring fits into the hole farthest from the br pedal. partzilla has a photo of this spring as well.
There's an engine/frame bracket that the br light switch fits into

If you search the various parts on eebbaayy, you can see what new are supposed to look like. in case something on your bike is damaged or missing. Kawasaki service manual. jarlef z650. the 1981 KZ650 pdf is in the Files section.
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Thanks Martin. I have a brand new light switch spring, and an arguably good condition return spring. I fitted up the springs to how you mentioned, but they were still loose. I ended up undoing all the rear brake adjustment screws and readjusting from scratch...ended up that the mechanic the bike was with recently had adjusted the brakes way too tightly and was making the brake pedal activate way too early, even with "proper play". I readjusted using the specs from the manual I have, and had no issue getting the springs back on. Bike passed inspection this evening and all good, so thanks!

Glad you figured it out. So, did he have the cam lever angle wrong?
I'm guessing it was less than the 80-90 degree spec shown in the manual. pg 2-15. jarlef z650.

Brake shoes. Did you replace the brake shoes? .... old old old linings can separate from a shoe, then lock the rear wheel.

I didn't get a look directly at the brake shoes as the mechanic changed the tires, but the brakes behave like they should...locking rear tire with full force and releasing with none. I believe it was the cam lever...once I figured out it was out of spec I just took it apart and reassembled by hand so something else could have been out of spec too that I missed. Oh well...problem gone for the moment. Now to figure out what he did to the carbs...the idle adjustment screw can't be screwed in all the way down with the spring in place...only can set idle when the spring is gone. I Jerry rigged with duck tape to hold in place for now, but makes me wonder...

Rear brake shoes. If you don't know the age of the brake shoes, replace them. The adhesive that binds the linings to the shoes can fail over time, so a lining can separate from a shoe, then get jammed between a shoe & drum, locking the rear wheel. It happened to me, so it does happen. It is an age issue with the adhesive & has nothing to do with the amount of wear or their function or appearance. Mine looked almost new, but they were the old old old originals.

Carburetors. You probably need to adjust the throttle slides, so that you can then reset the throttle stop screw (idle adj screw). To adjust the slides you remove the carb tops, loosen the locknuts, then adjust the slide height by turning the slotted screws.

I had the mechanic "check the brakes" when he had the tires off to remount. He said he thought they were good, but judging by other mistakes he could be wrong. Seeing as the brake pad change is one of the more straight forward processes on this bike, I will probably head your advice and change them out here soon. Thanks for the heads up on the pad glue separating.

Carbs...again the mechanic rebuilt them so probably forgot to adjust the slide levels with the spring in hence why I'm trying to put it on. What you said sounds dead on...I'm running the bike with duck tape over the screw to keep it moving off idle setting for now but I will likely tackle readjusting and syncing the carbs this winter once the weather is a bit colder.

You might be able to use a shorter spring. or maybe a couple of lock washers or spring washers.
At the least I would put high temp thread sealant on the threads. the stuff thickens, but doesn't harden.
fasteners are reposition-able, even after it sets up overnight. I use it on some bolts instead of a thread locker.

Vintage motorcycles. Working on old bikes can be a pain, especially for a motorcycle shop that normally repairs modern motorcycles. stuck bolts. rusty or missing parts. broken stuff. sourcing new parts. old, yucky fluids. You'll probably have to check or redo any repairs the guy did. I wouldn't fault the shop too much, unless they advertise repairing vintage models.

ps: for clarity drum brakes have brake shoes. disk brakes have brake pads.