ZRX shocks on KZ1100

I just bought a set of these off the ZRXOA forum. Im hoping these will ride a little better than the stock KZ shocks. Is this the case ? If you have this conversion I'd like to hear from you

Those are the KYB piggyback shocks, yes? I have not personally tried them, have been real tempted to though. Other guys have done this and said they were very pleased with the outcome. I think they are about a half inch longer than the stockers. Honestly, I don't see how they couldn't be better than the originals. Give her a go! I'd like to hear what you think about them!

Yes on the piggy back KYB. No kidding on gotta be better than the originals. I'm 250 and have the preload set at lightest point and they are still pretty rough. I have a friend with a Suzuki GS850 and rides much nicer.

I run them on my Z1B. I spaced out the left shock with washers to clear the chain. Also had to rebuild them due to failing bladders. Good damping, easier on my back.

I run them on my GPZ750. They work well but I did have to remove the helmet lock due to interference.
I also had to mod the chain guard to clear.

Kidkawie wrote: I run them on my Z1B. I spaced out the left shock with washers to clear the chain. Also had to rebuild them due to failing bladders. Good damping, easier on my back.

Did you rebuild them yourself ? Or send them to someone? What was the price of rebuild ? Thanks

Nice, Kidkawie, they sure look sharp on your bike! Fit right in with that paint scheme!

Thanks!

I rebuilt them myself. I used heavy duty zip ties to compress the spring, couldnt find the exact length bladder but have the part number for one thats close, used 2.5wt shock oil. Cost about $50 for both. I have to look but I think I have some documents on rebuilding/bleeding them. They are 1/2" or so longer but it doesnt seem to make any difference when theres weight compressing them.

I also did tgat mod where you cut off the spring preload adjuster tabs which lets you use the upper housing as new tabs. The inner sleve gets loose so I took it a step more and welded the inner sleve to the preload adjuster.

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Kidkawie wrote:
I also did tgat mod where you cut off the spring preload adjuster tabs which lets you use the upper housing as new tabs. The inner sleve gets loose so I took it a step more and welded the inner sleve to the preload adjuster.

What is this mod you speak of ? I just mounted my shocks up and it seems to sit my bike up a little higher than I like. Ill post some pics later

Anyone what are my options for lowering the rear if I choose to do so ?

Inserted pic.. Im kinda torn .. Half of me says it looks like a dirt bike.. Half says it looks ok.. Def rides nicer

Ill try to get some pics tomorrow, but you basically remove the preload adjuster nubs then use the upper housing instead. Besides that, you can put limiters inside the shock.

See pics. With the nubs removed from the inner sleeve, the sleeve can fall inside the shock because nothing is holding it up anymore. I indexed the inner sleeve with the preload adjuster ring and welded them together. You cannot remove the inner sleeve alone because then there will be too much slop between the shock body and the preload adjuster. Static weight on the shocks they measure 13.25" eye-to-eye. Tha bladder I used is 46mm x 88mm, part #120104600101, original bladder is65mm long, Race Tech sells original size for $100/ea but it's not that crucial IMO.

If you want lower than that, you need to fab up some limiters out of UHMW polyethene rod. Buy a foot of it (McMaster Carr) in a diameter smaller than your shock ID and chop off a coupla pieces on the band saw or lathe.