Rear Shock Length ?

Can't seem to find this information in the FSM but I have a 77' KZ1000A and measured the rear shock length of the shocks mounted on the bike. They measure 12" from eye to eye ? Is this the right length ?

Being short , this length shock works for me but was thinking about even lowering the bike a little more.

I don't have any history of the bike's shocks as they were on the bike when I purchased it. Bike was really a basket case prior but now it's running well for what it is.

kzdcw wrote: Can't seem to find this information in the FSM but I have a 77' KZ1000A and measured the rear shock length of the shocks mounted on the bike. They measure 12" from eye to eye ? Is this the right length ?

Being short , this length shock works for me but was thinking about even lowering the bike a little more.

I don't have any history of the bike's shocks as they were on the bike when I purchased it. Bike was really a basket case prior but now it's running well for what it is.

Stock free length is probably 13.5" eye to eye. See link:
Click here > www.z1enterprises.com/rr-shocks-kz900-1000-chrome.html

When installing shorter shocks, be sure full compression won't allow the rear tire to contact underside of the rear fender.

An easy way to check for adequate tire-fender clearance is to test by sitting on the bike and collapsing the rear suspension with only one shock fitted.

May also insert a fist-sized wad of modeling clay or play dough on top of the rear tire before mounting the seat and bouncing the rear suspension.

May want to consider also lowering the front end to help preserve the stock ergonomics, as steering is usually slowed when lowering just the rear end (which slower steering might actually be desired by some riders who say it feels less twitchy and more like being "on rails"). On the other hand, some riders, especially professed lovers of the "twisties," lower only the front end to achieve quicker steering for reportedly "improved" cornering ability.

Would also keep in mind that the bike may tip over onto its starboard side due to the side-stand being too long when the bike is lowered.
And likely also more difficult to hoist onto its center-stand (if so equipped), in which event, parking with the rear tire on a short length of "2 by whatever" board will reduce the hoisting effort needed.

Good Fortune!

Patton, Upon further inspection of the rear fender underneath, I can see a little scuff marks on the plastic fender portion. The rear tire doesn't show any signs of scuffing so probably just barely touching the fender. I weigh only 175 Lb.s fully geared and the rear shock that I have on the bike is set at it's lowest compression adjustment.

I always thought this rear shock was stock as I said earlier the bike was a non-running basket case when I purchased it and the shock was already installed on it.

...lowering just the rear end (which slower steering might actually be desired by some riders who say it feels less twitchy and more like being "on rails"). On the other hand, some riders, especially professed lovers of the "twisties," lower only the front end to achieve quicker steering for reportedly "improved" cornering ability.

It does make a noticeable difference, also I quite like a slightly jacked up rear end look, my avatar bike for example. Great write up BTW.

Beware of the amount of travel on front forks when going fast over a bump, a lot more force (and travel) than you can generate bouncing up and down on it when stationary.

My 750r1 has had a non standard Zephyr oil cooler and the custom front mudguard kissed it and marked the paint when going 70mph over a large unexpected bump (on the M25 motorway! ) The amount of fork compression on that incident was well above what I had envisaged. Soft preload will increase this compression even further.

I've gotten used to the shorter rear shock on the back. The shorter shock really helps with my short inseam and reach to the ground. Apparently this shock that I have is an inch and a half shorter ? I do have the front fork tubes raised 3/4" in the fork clamps and doesn't show any problem there. Though the bike is a little bouncy and harsh when riding it. But then again, these shocks and fork springs are old and who knows what condition they are in.

The seat pan has been reupholstered, Maybe there's a little padding that can be removed to lower the bike a little more. Probably what I should do is install another spare seat pan that I have and then lay a foam block on it to see what I can shave and shape to give me the desired feel I'm looking for?

Anyway, any input anyone wants to offer to this Post is greatly appreciated !

A quick search of "lowering front end" produces numerous KZr posts with lots of info about it.

Here's the link (scroll down past the first few Engine forum posts):
Click here > www.kzrider.com/forum/search?query=lower...orums=1&limitstart=0

Good Fortune!

Perhaps of interest ---

Click here > www.kzrider.com/forum/5-chassis/606427-l...ing-front-end#765999

Good Fortune!

I just measured my after market Boge-Mullholand KZ1000A shocks and they are 13.5" with the bike on the center stand.

Those are the same shocks on my bike. Been on it since 1990.......if you ride with a passenger be care low you go. And don't lower the front without lowering the back fist. If you just lower the front it changes the fork angle and you can get high speed instability....... I found out the head way..... that is why I just lowered the back and now picking the front up 1.5"........ it should sit properly now..... fork angle will be very close to factory. I'm also installing a steering damper, I nice addition even on a stock bike. Highly recommend add on.

Lester wheels might be the way to go if you want to lower your bike.

I'm assuming your referring to smaller F/R wheels over the stock 19" F and 18" rear ?