If your options are Dunlop or Shinko, go with the latter, particularly the Shinko 230.
As for rebuilding the carbs, I probably would not do that until the off season (if you have one), especially if the bike seems to run okay. That said, I would definitely try to figure out why one of your carbs is overflowing. It could just be the needle valve, or maybe the drain valve screw on the bowl. But if that one carb overflows when the bike is not running and the fuel valve is apparently closed, you _really_ need to get that fixed, as this would suggest your fuel valve is leaking (and that your other carbs' overflows are clogged). Google "hydrolock caused broken connecting rod" for more on the dangers of a leaking fuel valve. Rather than remove and rebuild the carbs, here's what I would do right now to your fuel system:
--Remove and clean both the inside of the fuel tank and the fuel valve (aka fuel petcock). Be sure to clean the vent hole on the cap as well. On older bikes, especially ones that have been in storage, the inside of the tank can corrode, and this corrosion will flake off and sink to the bottom of the tank, eventually clogging the flow of fuel through the fuel valve and possibly even interfering with the closure of the valve. This can lead to a maddening situation where you have fuel in the tank, the fuel valve on, a good battery, but a no-start condition. You'll think the problem is an undetectable ignition fault...until you check the actual flow through the fuel valve, which will be insufficient due to the rust clog.
-- Reinstall the fuel valve and check for leak free fuel valve operation. It needs to flow when on and not flow at all when off. If you want a very quick, satisfaction-inducing project, get a fuel valve rebuild kit and rebuild your fuel valve.
--Install a clear fuel filter between the tank and the carbs. They are cheap and you can get them from your local auto parts store or favorite MC part house; it's a universal item. If you suspect your engine isn't running due to a fuel flow problem, a look at the fuel filter will tell you if fuel is flowing though it. Plus, you'll keep rust and other crap out of your carbs. Carry a spare fuel filter just in case.
--Drain the fuel from the bowls and pull the fuel bowls from each of the carbs. Clean out any varnish, rust debris, etc.. Clean the overflow tubes and the seats of the drain screws. Replace the rubber drain hoses; it will cost like $4. Try to save the fuel bowl gasket so you can reuse it.
--With the carb bowls off, check the needle valves, starting with the carb that's overflowing. It may be that the needle valve on that carb has gone bad. In that case, replace all four needle valves, as the other three may be close behind. If it's just that there's a chunk of crap caught between the needle and its seat, and the needle looks good otherwise, just clean and replace. Also, remove and check the float in the overflowing carb. Is there liquid sloshing around in it? It's supposed to have only air in it. However, the seams on the floats sometimes fail, and when they do the float fills with gasoline. which keeps it from floating. As a consequence, the needle valve never gets never pushed up far enough to close off the fuel flow, which in turn causes an overflow situation even if everything else is working correctly (it should not overflow when the fuel valve on the tank is turned off).
I suggest the foregoing in part because it's simply maintenance you should do. But I also suggest it, because you said you hadn't had a chance to take the bike out yet and open her up. Youi'll want to do the foregoing before heading out on that full power test ride, because, if you don't, you may mis-diagnose the cause of a problem. For example, if you take her out and she's sluggish or surges at wide open throttle, maybe you have the wrong size main jets or a clogged main jet. Or, maybe the jet size is fine, and the problem is that you aren't getting enough fuel to the carbs because the fuel valve is half blocked with rust flakes from the inside of the tank. Making sure you have a clean, full supply of fuel to the carbs is step one in determining what, if any, work needs to be done to them.
I didn't say it before, but congrats on your new bike, and welcome to the forum.
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