Wheel Bearing Install ?

With some of the wheel run-out that I'm seeing in both F/R rims on my 77' KZ1000A, might be a good idea and replace the original and install new.

First, Where are you Guys purchasing them ?

Second, Is there any "special" tools needed for the install of the bearings ?

And Third, Any TIPS in installing them ?

Any Input as usual is Always Appreciated !

All Balls bearing kits are cheap and work fine.

I install bearings using a large socket. Only press on the outer race, never the inner.

When setting the first bearing in place put it in just far enough to allow you to get the snap ring in place. Don't over drive the bearing in deeper than this. Then flip over the wheel, put in the spacer between the bearings, and drive in the second bearing watching how deep you go. You want to go deep enough to expose the snap ring groove but not so deep that the spacer between the two bearings is binding up the bearings themselves. If necessary you can always drive the bearings in a little farther. You want them so the inner spacer is contained but not binding up the bearings.

Nessism, I kind of thought using a socket and old bearing would work well in installing the new bearings.

Your procedure above, is this for both F/R wheels ?

kzdcw wrote: Nessism, I kind of thought using a socket and old bearing would work well in installing the new bearings.

Your procedure above, is this for both F/R wheels ?

Yes, the same.

The first time I installed bearings in my KZ I drove in one of the bearings until it was seated all the way down into the cavity in the wheel. I flipped over the wheel, installed the spacer, and then proceeded to drive in the other bearing. Low and behold the inner race was binding because of the spacer before the 2nd bearing was installed deep enough to expose the snap ring groove. This occurred because the first bearing was in too deep. I wound up having to push the first bearing back a little bit and in the process the bearing was destroyed. Please learn from my [strike]mistake[/strike] learning experience...

Apply a light coating of wheel bearing grease to the outer race & wheel so they'll drive in easier. I used an inexpensive bearing driver kit.

A good thing about the All-Balls wheel bearing kits is that they include the oil seals, so it's a handy time to service the speedo drive unit.

You do not need a specialty tool as a proper sized socket works fine. I decided to spend the $67 on the Motion Pro bearing install kit recently as I have like 3 pairs of wheels to do. It is well worth the investment. It comes with different size pieces that fit the innter and outter of the bearing. It really made life a lot easier.

www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0551-Bearin...s=motion+pro+bearing

For years after I packed my new bearing with grease, I would put it in the freezer for a few hours. Then I would warm the area on the rim where the bearing was to go. The new bearing would almost fall into place. No beating on your new bearing with a BFH!!!! A few light taps and it was in place.

If you use a flat faced driver to push the new bearings into place you will not have a problem with binding. The flat faced driver contacts the inner and outer race on the same plain so that when the inner race contacts the spacer the bearing stops moving. No force is transmitted through the balls so the bearing is not damaged. This is how the bearings are installed at the factory.

How about this bearing driver set ? Made in China but I'm sure it would do the job and at $21.99 a lot less expensive. Not sure if all the sizes in the kit would work in all applications ?

You'll need a set with some larger sizes. I have a Performance Tool 7-piece set without the fancy storage case. disks fit common bearing sizes. smallest disk = 1.565" & largest disk = 2.555". ... Before purchasing, I looked up the bearing part numbers at Kawaski.com, then checked the dimensions using the bearing charts at Dans mc repair course.

similar to mine but has 3 additional large sizes.
11 Pc Wheel Bearing Race & Seal Driver Set

+ 1 on freezing the bearings and warming the cavity

bluej58 wrote: + 1 on freezing the bearings and warming the cavity

Yep, don't need driver set, most of the time, the bearing drops almost in place. A few light taps with a SMALL ballpeen on a socket the same size as the O.D. on the bearing, and its in!!!! On some mags, when I flipped the rim over, the installed bearing nearly fell out.

Works great when assembling vertically split dirt bike cases too!!! The crank just about falls into place in the one case half. Same when you drop the other case half into the other half.