Dissassembling front forks for KZ750-B4

The FSM says to use special tools PN57001-183 & 57001-1011 to hold the innards of the fork while turning out the 8mm socket head bolt in the lower fork tube. On 1300s I've used the head of a 5/8" hex bolt. On my KZ900 there is a special 3/8" socket that does the job. I'd sure like to see a close up picture of the business end of that special tool that fits a 1979 750 Twin.
Does anybody have one? Could you please post a picture of it?
Thanks in Advance
Bill

If you slightly compress the fork the spring pressure holds the damper rod. Might need an impact if it still spins though.

A spark plug socket with hex on the outside installed backwards into a long extension fits the internal hex on many japanese fork damper rods. Worked on my 750E forks anyway.

Thanks Nessism!
Any chance you still have that socket and could measure the hex? The hex on a 5/8" bolt is 15/16" across the flats and it works fine on my 1300s but that hex won't fit into the fork tube on a 750 Twin.
Regards
Bill

Some of the 70s models have a smooth round head that a standard tool won't fit & the special tool just grips it by friction.

KZR topic with photos

Kawasaki fork tool --- 57001-1011

If you find that the hole in the top of the fork cylinder is round (as it is on my KZ650-C1) you have a couple options other than the genuine Kawasaki tool. You can make one as I did (see image below) or you can buy a tool like the one shown here ( www.racetech.com/page/id/70 ) in the top row, center picture. Ed

My Z1 has the round top. Rather than jamming a piece of wood in there as the Clymer suggests, I just keep the forks together and undo the Allen. Sometimes I have to hit the end of the wrench to shock it loose. Impact tool would do the same thing. Works every time.
Steve

Some forks are more difficult than others. I don't know if the guy at the factory used permanent Loctite or what, but on my KZ650-C1 nothing would break the fork cylinder bolts loose until I made the tool shown. With the springs and caps in place fork cylinders just spun around when i used my impact wrench. Using the tool to prevent the fork cylinder from spinning I was able to remove one of the bolts, but the other absolutely refused to loosen. On that one I ended up using the tool to prevent the fork cylinder from spinning while I drilled the head off the allen bolt. Not fun at all. On the bright side, the tool made it easy to torque the new bolts to the torque spec. Ed

martin_csr wrote: Some of the 70s models have a smooth round head that a standard tool won't fit & the special tool just grips it by friction.

KZR topic with photos

Kawasaki fork tool --- 57001-1011

Thanks Martin! That picture of the special tool was what I needed:



Using that I ground and welded up something similar:








I'm not sure what it's gripping inside the fork tube but it seems to hold firmly. I'll take them apart tomorrow.

Bill

KZQ wrote: I'm not sure what it's gripping inside the fork tube but it seems to hold firmly. I'll take them apart tomorrow.

Bill

The 4 corners just dig into the damper like an easy-out.

Kidkawie wrote:

KZQ wrote: I'm not sure what it's gripping inside the fork tube but it seems to hold firmly. I'll take them apart tomorrow.

Bill

The 4 corners just dig into the damper like an easy-out.

Thanks Kid,
I was afraid of that. I'll be sure to not let the damper spin by pressing firmly while I try to turn the bottom cap screw.

Bill

For some reason the links to these images are getting blocked so you might want to check out this thread for some good ideas on how to make some tools, including using the spark plug socket as mentioned earlier in this thread. I'd try that first since so many forks have that hex pattern in the damper rod. No need to go cramming some tapered metal plug in the fork if a proper mating tool is available and fits.

xjbikes.com/forums/threads/front-forks-81-xj650.48507/