can't stop forks leaking

Just to jump in here,I also have the same problem. My left seal on the 1100 keeps leaking. Every year I have to change it. As I'm looking at it and comparing the forks to the 750 that I haven't ridden in 3 years, they look about the same. I'm thinking swap them out. The 750 forks I rebuilt with new Progressive springs 5 years ago, and they are still pretty stiff. I had to lower them in the tree about an inch an a half to make it handle better. Any thoughts? Thanks.

Schorly wrote: When I first got my Kawasaki KZ1000 1982 CSR I had the fork tubes recromed and the fork seals changed. When I took it all apart I noticed some convolutions in the outer-tube where the oil seal sits, but it did not cause any issues and the forks were fine for a few years. I noticed some oiling the other day and decided to change the fork seals. Changing, no issues but one leaked. Thought I damaged the new seal and replaced it again. Still leaking and the other started as well. Thought the convolutions are now causing an issue and I back filled / bedded the gaskets in to liquid (silicone) gasket. One was good,, the other was good for 40miles and then showed a little misting. Thought this will do for the MOT, passed the test and came home and now both are badly leaking again. Now I think maybe the guide bushes are to be replaced as there is too much play and the gaskets can not accommodate so much? Before I go in there again, has anybody else some ideas I can change or try to make the stay dry?

Looks like you might have a floating front axle. What's the FSM instructions on installing the front wheel? If the axle floats you can't put pressure on the lower fork legs or you'll create binding which can lead to leaking. Basically the fork alignment is off.

We never heard what the original poster found if anything to fix the problem, but I still put odds on using aftermarket seals was the entire issue. So anyone with seal problems using aftermarket seals at least try factory seals before any other work. I've been down the aftermarket seal road unfortunately.

Ive used aftermarket, or technically off brand seals, in MX applications with good results. All Balls being probably the largest of the companies. But there are major seal manufacturers like National or SKF that may not be OE but are still quality stuff.

If you want original seals they need to come from KYB or Showa.

Be sure the forks are in a relaxed position before tightening the axle.
Steve

Unfortunately I was not able to go back to the forks as I am in the middle of laying 30m2 patio and must have mixed 3 tonnes of concrete in the wheelbarrow by now.
I still would like to understand why an aftermarket seal (not OEM) should be so much worse. I have ordered a need set of guide bushes, which I will try first as I suspect too much play, which the seals (any seal) will not accommodate.

swest wrote: Be sure the forks are in a relaxed position before tightening the axle.
Steve

Its a little more involved than that.

It doesnt matter what seal you put in there if you dont install the wheel properly. First thing to do is make sure there are no burrs inside the right fork tobe where the axle goes through. Run some fine sandpaper inside along with the right side of the axle. Wipe clean and apply a very thin coat of grease. Install the wheel and axle, holding the right side with a tool, snug up the nut on the left side, then tighten the left side pinch bolt and then tighten the axle nut.

Now you can "zero point" the right side fork. Install a small flathead screwdriver in the slot for the pinch bolt. This is where you need both axle and inner fork surfaces clean. Gently push and pull the axle tube to find where the fork wants to center itself, then tighten the pinch bolt.

This will get you the closest to perfect alignment. To get perfect alignment, with the left side tightened, you would need to remove the fork caps and bottom out the forks then tighten the right side pinch bolt.

I had some fork tubes that were slightly bent. Couldn't tell by looking. Kept replacing seals. I loosened the triple clamps and turned them to where there was no drag. Leak stopped. I bought new ones and progressive springs and seals. Perfect. I rolled the old tubes on a sliding glass door and I could see a very slight bend to them. I rode for years that way but this time I replaced the wheel bearings front and back too. It's fun on the FWY with my cruise control on, both hands off the bars and watching traffic backing off behind me. :woohoo: Doesn't pull to one side, the tire doesn't bounce, the ride is smooth and doing a ton isn't scary anymore. That was in 13 and I asked myself why didn't I do this a long time ago? After all they were only 40 years old. :blink:
Steve