New (HEL) SS Brake Lines

Should be installing them this weekend. Any recommendations or concerns toward making a smooth transition from having stock brake lines? The kit includes all new components necessary for the job, as I understand.

Nope just install them..... Torque the fittings down enough to stop the leak, but don't go further than that. The supplies copper washers will do the rest. Make sure you pay attention to the banjo/end position as some may look really similar, but they are not the same and will fit better one way vs another. Then add washers and torque them.

Cory

Make sure you have plenty of time to do it, unbolting old lines and fitting new ones is pretty easy, but sometimes it's not as easy to bleed the system afterwards as you think it's going to be. Ideally you want a vacuum bleeder but also make sure your lines are routed so air can find it's way back to the master cylinder and reservoir. When I put new lines on my KZ1000 I could draw the fluid through, but could not get anything close to the brake lever operating, in the end I realized the "splitter" where the one line goes to two was at an angle where air couldn't escape. It was made worse because I was using my engine hoist to lift the bike, because I'd had the forks out and so it was sitting a little higher at the front than normal. I unbolted it from the bike so I could change the angle and immediately started to get success and the lever firming up, it still took a while to get the air out and it was amazing how even the tiniest air bubble coming up into the reservoir effected the firmness of the brake lever.

As a general tip keep some water handy in case you spill any fluid on your paint or anything so you can get it off immediately with a really wet cloth before it damages anything.

You can use a hand operated MitiVac to pull the fluid through and past the bleeders. Makes bleeding much better. Also, use a large screwdriver handle and tap/rap on the calipers if you find difficulty in getting a firm lever. It will help dislodge the air bubbles that may be clinging to the small, internal cavities of the caliper(s).

Cory

redhawk4 wrote: Make sure you have plenty of time to do it, unbolting old lines and fitting new ones is pretty easy, but sometimes it's not as easy to bleed the system afterwards as you think it's going to be. Ideally you want a vacuum bleeder but also make sure your lines are routed so air can find it's way back to the master cylinder and reservoir. When I put new lines on my KZ1000 I could draw the fluid through, but could not get anything close to the brake lever operating, in the end I realized the "splitter" where the one line goes to two was at an angle where air couldn't escape. It was made worse because I was using my engine hoist to lift the bike, because I'd had the forks out and so it was sitting a little higher at the front than normal. I unbolted it from the bike so I could change the angle and immediately started to get success and the lever firming up, it still took a while to get the air out and it was amazing how even the tiniest air bubble coming up into the reservoir effected the firmness of the brake lever.

As a general tip keep some water handy in case you spill any fluid on your paint or anything so you can get it off immediately with a really wet cloth before it damages anything.

Good points to consider while at it. This may be a good opportunity to pop the pistons and clean out any gunk residing in there since the last time 3-4 years ago (if not longer).
...but the best way to ensure confidence of having the overall project work the best it can.

NakedFun wrote: Nope just install them..... Torque the fittings down enough to stop the leak, but don't go further than that. The supplies copper washers will do the rest. Make sure you pay attention to the banjo/end position as some may look really similar, but they are not the same and will fit better one way vs another. Then add washers and torque them.

Cory

This stopped the project today before it started. All lines were made longer than ordered, but this one was problematic...

daveo wrote:

NakedFun wrote: Nope just install them..... Torque the fittings down enough to stop the leak, but don't go further than that. The supplies copper washers will do the rest. Make sure you pay attention to the banjo/end position as some may look really similar, but they are not the same and will fit better one way vs another. Then add washers and torque them.

Cory

This stopped the project today before it started. All lines were made longer than ordered, but this one was problematic...

Does this installation look ok?

Looks good to me. Just lift up on the handle bars while on the center stand to ensure slack is adjusted for the forks extending fully.

Cory