LTD 1000 Rear Master Cyclinder

Patients paid off I was able to push it into the bore toward the reservoir, used a #3 large Philips screwdriver kinda jammed sideways in the socket end of the piston to get it to spin. Put a rubber tipped blow gun in the banjo hole and it shot out on the second hit. cleaned it up and the bore looks good. Rubber "bits" still look good. Still want to remove the reservoir. I see a thin plastic disc inside that looks like it has tabs that hold it in. can somebody please give me detailed instructions to get it off?

I think you will find there are a couple screws under the plastic piece. They hold the reservoir to the MC body. The images below are from a different model, but I suspect things are held together the same way. BE CAREFUL - there is an o-ring between the plastic reservoir and the MC (it's shown in the images), and that o-ring is very difficult or impossible to find new. Kawasaki never offered it as a separate part. If your MC is not leaking at the o-ring you may want to reconsider separating the plastic reservoir from the MC body. Ed

KZ650-C1 FRONT


KZ650-C1 REAR

Thank You 650ed,

Not sure if it will leak or not. It has a leak somewhere, as it was dry and the frame paint is removed where the brake fluid got on it. I was considering removing the reservoir to give everything a good inspection and cleaning. I'm going to ponder that move first before I just jump in and maybe make things worse.

Can I start another thread of questioning here??? I have issues with the fuel petcock, or should i start a new topic???

I would start a new topic. There may be folks who have recent petcock experience who might not see the question if it is asked under the master cylinder title. Ed

650ed wrote: I would start a new topic. There may be folks who have recent petcock experience who might not see the question if it is asked under the master cylinder title. Ed

Thank you

Well I decided to take it completely apart and I'm glad I did. it was so cruddy under the reservoir that any attempted rebuild would more then likely have failed.

What can I soak the aluminum MC housing to cut the corrosion and paint so I have a clean part for the rebuild?

Time for an Update. I took the MC body to my local small engine repair shop and they soaked it in their carburetor cleaning solvent tank for a few hour. Then they offered to plug the holes up and low pressure glass bead blast it for me. The total cost, $5.00. Look at the results







Next I need to know where to purchase the rebuild kit.
Also I need to know what paint i can use on the MC body that will resist brake fluid.

Rebuild kits are available anywhere. Your local bikeshop should be able to order you one and ebay has plenty. Painting is a different matter as
brake fluid (dot4) will eat off pretty much anything. I have heard the new fluids (dot 5 maybe,but Im not sure) are less aggressive and wont damage your paint.
Maybe powdercoat is tough enough or if you like the current finish,just wipe it down with diesel and leave it as it is.

A 5/8" bore master for the rear is not very common. I'm no expert, but that's the first time I've seen one even. At any rate, make sure you look inside at the bore like mentioned previously. If there is pitting you better think twice about spending money on a rebuild kit.

Thanks. As for the bore it looks great. The guy at the small engine repair shop that soaked it and blasted it thought the bore was clean enough to be rebuilt.

This looks like the kit I need but I will contact RedLine to verify its a 5/8 bore.




Here is a picture of the rear caliper

I wonder if those reservoirs are all anodized? You probably could go to some plating shop and have it re-anodized if it is done that way

I was thinking my best bet is powder coat. I'm going to run it by the local PC shop and get a quote. If that's to costly I will go to the local auto parts and get brake caliper paint. I reality is supposed to be dry on the outside!!!. Any engine enamel or caliper paint will work as long as it doesn't leak. I'm not looking to get a concourse grade finish anyway.

Whats the trick to getting the rubber cup seals into the bore???