Fork Seal replacement questions

1982 KZ550 LTD

I am going to replace the fork seals. I have never done this before and I have been reading old threads about this topic.

A question I have is -

In the picture -



Bolt "12" is the infamous lower bolt that requires an impact gun to remove?

What is bolt "14"?

Inner tube "23" has to be removed to change the seal? Bolt "12" threads into the bottom of inner tube "23"?

#14 is the drain screw for draining the fork oil.

#12 threads into #1 (the fork cylinder) not #23.

The difficulty many folks have is the fact that when you try to unscrew #12 the fork cylinder (#1) turns with it and this prevents #12 from loosening. There have been several ways to try to hold the fork cylinder from turning; some work better than others depending on how stuck #12 is in the fork cylinder. The hole in the top of some fork cylinders are hexagonal shaped, and for these the head of a long bolt can be inserted into the hex and held steady while #12 is loosened. However, some fork cylinders (like mine) have a round hole and if the spring pressure (with the fork cap on) isn't enough to hold the fork cylinder from turning a special tool of some sort need to be jammed into the round hole to hold the fork cylinder steady. Some folks use a whittled down broomstick; I made a metal tool with a rubber cap, and there is at least one special tool available online for this purpose. No matter what, an impact wrench with the appropriate allen bit will be helpful. Take a look inside the fork to see if your fork cylinder has a round hole. If it does and you need help finding a tool just ask and we'll try to provide some options. Ed

Thank you Ed.

It looks like "23" inner tube needs to come out to access the seal. I am worried about "24" guide bushing destroying the seal.

They loosening #12 with the fork assembled. The spring often keeps it from rotating. I use a Allen socket and smack the handle of the wrench to get it loose. If that doesn't work then you'll have to do more. If it came loose, take off the top plug. Once #12 is out, they will all slide out together.
Steve

If you fully disassemble those forks you will need to replace the #9 & #24 bushings in each fork leg. Assembling them will also be much easier if you have a seal / bushing driver. The # 24 bushings and the seals need to be installed after the #23 inner tube is back in place inside the #10 outer tube.
Racetech may be your best bet to find #24.

Replace #24 and other parts if they look worn out. See if there's any slop while it's together, if not, replace the seals and RIDE THE PISS OUT OF IT. :woohoo:
Steve

I have finished this project. It's nice to get rid of front fork dive under braking.

Thank you all.

Slightly compressing the fork can help hold everything together while trying to remove the bottom bolt.