Chain Recommendation ???

You mentioned that you are not doing a chain conversion because the sprockets are in good shape but as others have mentioned, you should change them out if you are putting a new chain on. Soooo, if you are doing all that then you should really think about a chain conversion. I finally did mine last year and I this was definitely the best modification I've done. I'll give you three reasons.
1- More horsepower to the pavement because the chain is much lighter. Trust me, you can feel it.
2- Cheaper.
3- Available in many cool colors.

whirlwind598 wrote: ... if you go with o or x rings then keep in mind you have to clean them regularly, a lot of people just lube them up now and then and the chain is spent in less than a thousand miles. Adding lube to a dirty chain is a sure way to help that dirt and grime dig deeper into the chain.... I didnt know that when I got my chain last year, now I have a nice did and I plan on taking real good care of it.

??? :blink:
The only "cleaning" I give my chain is to wipe off the excess chain lube each time I lube the chain. My chain is an O-ring type. As you can see by the picture below, I have only adjusted my chain less than 1 notch (when new it was between the 1st two notches) in more than 21,000 miles. Are you sure you left the appropriate amount of slack in your chain, and did you lube it regularly? Ed

I lube regularly, no idea about the slack, but that's the info I picked up during research, several times as well, I dont take it as fact but I believe it is a plausible concern for most people.

It is possible I didnt have enough play, my bike just has the screw adjusters for the slack and to "straighten?" the wheel.

You must allow about 1 inch up total up and down slack in the chain with the bike on the center stand. Slack should be measured midway between the sprockets and at the tightest portion of the chain. As you turn the wheel you may notice some parts of the chain are tighter than others, especially on a used chain.

The reason for the slack is the geometry of the bike. Because the engine sprocket is located forward of the swing arm pivot the chain will tighten as the rear wheel is raised until the engine sprocket, swing arm pivot, and rear axle are all aligned. Consequently, much of the slack will be taken up when the rider sits on the bike with it off the center stand. Even more slack will be taken up when the bike accelerates, and even more when it hits a bump. Again, the chain will be at its tightest when the engine sprocket, swing arm pivot, and rear axle are all aligned.

If too little slack is left in the chain when it is adjusted it will be placed under enormous stress when the bike is ridden and will wear out (along with the sprockets) prematurely. BTW, I learned this lesson the hard way on my old BSA. Ed

Probably what caused my last chain problems then, ill keep watch on the new one thanks ed!

650ed wrote: You must allow about 1 inch up total up and down slack in the chain with the bike on the center stand. Slack should be measured midway between the sprockets and at the tightest portion of the chain. As you turn the wheel you may notice some parts of the chain are tighter than others, especially on a used chain.

The reason for the slack is the geometry of the bike.

That's accurate if the shocks are stock length. I put on shocks a bit longer than stock and that threw that adjustment off. When up on the center stand, the wheel was a little lower which put a bit more slack into the chain. Adjusting to 1" spec that way ended up making the chain too tight. Now I check chain slack sitting on the bike (on the ground) which centers the wheel position so it's a maximum chain stretch . I also roll forward a couple of feet and repeat to check all the way around in case there are tight spots.

That's a good point for those who have changed the shocks to longer ones. One other method those folks could use would be to put the bike on the center stand, unhook both shocks so the swing arm can easily be lifted, and lift it up to a position in which the front sprocket, swing arm pivot, and rear axle form a straight line. With the swing arm in that position the chain could be adjusted leaving minimal slack since the movement of the swing arm should never draw the chain tighter. Ed

Bountyhunter wrote

That's accurate if the shocks are stock length. I put on shocks a bit longer than stock and that threw that adjustment off. When up on the center stand, the wheel was a little lower which put a bit more slack into the chain. Adjusting to 1" spec that way ended up making the chain too tight. Now I check chain slack sitting on the bike (on the ground) which centers the wheel position so it's a maximum chain stretch . I also roll forward a couple of feet and repeat to check all the way around in case there are tight spots

I had the same experience. It took a while to figure out a repetitive noise at about 50 Kph - tight spot on chain- but luckily I caught it before any serious damage was done

JR wrote: Bountyhunter wrote

That's accurate if the shocks are stock length. I put on shocks a bit longer than stock and that threw that adjustment off. When up on the center stand, the wheel was a little lower which put a bit more slack into the chain. Adjusting to 1" spec that way ended up making the chain too tight. Now I check chain slack sitting on the bike (on the ground) which centers the wheel position so it's a maximum chain stretch . I also roll forward a couple of feet and repeat to check all the way around in case there are tight spots

I had the same experience. It took a while to figure out a repetitive noise at about 50 Kph - tight spot on chain- but luckily I caught it before any serious damage was done

I heard the sound and also felt it. Didn't do serious damage but screwed up the chain.

Life's lessons always have a price.

reading the conversations about chain wear. i am thinking about going with an extended swingarm (5 in. over stock on my 1980 kz1000 . i know a longer chain will be heavier, do you think it will add a significant amount of wear or will it just require more attention.

As long as it is adjusted properly there may not be premature wear, but with that long swing arm the bike will handle like crap. Is this being done to a bike that will only be used on the drag strip? Ed