steering stem bearings

When installing new tapered steering stem bearings, what if any of the factory, races, spacers etc do you keep?

I took all spacers away and drove the bottom bearing down with taper upwards, but when i put the triple tree through the fork i could get enough play to tighten the looknut down properly. As i had driven the bearing down, it wasnt coming off in one piece

All so i didnt have a rubber seal as it wasnt in the bearing kit i bought, important?

Are there any pics , instuctions for fitting around?

I just changed the head bearings in my 750E and it took me some trial and error before I got it right. I bought an All Balls kit, but also bought a stock Kawasaki upper bearing because it has a seal built in. At any rate, there should be a seal that goes down on the triple tree stem before the lower bearing is pressed onto the stem. The seal fits inside the frame steering neck and keeps water from coming in from the bottom. The upper bearing is where I struggled, because there didn't seem to be any good way to seal out the water. I didn't have, nor could I figure out what top cap should be used with the Kawasaki bearing with the seal attached. In the end I used another lower bearing seal, the same type used over the steering stem, on the top. It works okay but I'm still not clear how the upper bearing is supposed to seal. Not sure if the 440 takes the same bearings as the 750E, but if it does, and you need some extras now, send me a PM. I've collected several extras now.

Right thats how i thought it fits together, there is a collar that sits on the bottom of the tripple tree, then the seal (that i didnt have) then the bottom part of bearing, taper up. the upper part to the bottom bearing is pressed into the frame. top bearing is pressed into top of frame taper down, stem comes throught and the locknut (thingy thats tightened with a C spanner) comes, thightened, top tripple tree and then top bolt.

Im in berlin so thanks for your offer, but i will have to find parts here.

do i "really" "need" rubber seal?

Yes

You shouldn't need Kawasaki seals. The All Balls set should have seals with it. Ed

www.jpcycles.com/product/700-280?utm_sou..._xx74CFVJnOgod1nsAYw

Every All Balls kit I have ordered came with 2 seals. I would contact All Balls and ask them about it.

cant get any all ball sets here in germeny, oh the joy. no set i find online come with seals

some pics

Seller on ebay will ship to Germany..... filterkingonline is his name hoping he might have your model.

Ok i think i have solved the problem, the seal comes as another set but none of the ebay sellers here advertise that.
I am being sent some seal, lets see what turns up

so, the bottom collar stays at the botom, the inside of bearing is pressed onto the stem with seal, then outside bearing. racers are pressed in frame as i have them now. should all slot into place now right?

I was just looking for a few tips on installing the bearings and found this thread....here is what AllBalls says:

file:///C:/Users/mike%20hess/Desktop/AllBallssteeringbearinginstallation.pdf

Installation Instructions
Steering bearings
Note: These instructions are very general and you should have a service manual for your particular model of bike to
get a better understanding of your particular setup and to get factory recommended torque levels.
1) Clean bike
2) Remove triple clamps from bike frame.
a) Remove upper triple clamp.
b) Remove spanner nut to drop the steering stem out of the frame.
3) Remove the old outer races from the frame.
a) It is possible to remove the old outer races with a drift. Although a steering
bearing removal tool works best.
b) Tap around the inside edge evenly with a drift until the races come out. (upper
and lower.) (Fig A)
4) Remove lower steering bearing from steering stem.
a) Remove the rollers from the bearing by destroying the cage. By removing the
cage and rollers you will expose a lip on the bearing.
b) A bearing puller may be used. However a drift may be used to tap the bearing off
while the stem is being held in a vice. When clamping the stem in a vice make
sure to hold it in the middle of the stem away from where the bearings rest.
(Fig
5) Inspect parts.
a) Clean all parts thoroughly at this point remove all old grease rust and grime.
b) The frame head tube should be checked for burs.
c) Remove any burs they will hang up the new races during installation.
d) Inspect the steering stem for any damage that may interfere with the new
bearing.
6) Install the lower steering bearing.
a) Remember to slide the steering seal onto the stem first.
b) Find a pipe that slides over the steering stem but only makes contact with the
inner race of the bearing. (Fig C) Pressing on the cage of the bearing will distort it
and may cause binding in your steering.
7) Install the new outer races.
a) A bearing installation tool works best but they can also be pressed in.
b) The key is to start them straight never apply pressure to the tapered portions of
the races this could nick them causing steering binding.
c) A tool can easily be made with a piece of threaded bar stock some nuts that fit it
and some washers that have a slightly smaller outside diameter as the races that
you are installing. After the bearings are pulled in hit both ends of the threaded
rod with a hammer to fully seat the bearings. (Fig D)
Inspect your work.
a) Make sure that the lower steering bearing and the outer races are seated
properly.
b) Grease the bearings thoroughly.
9) Reassemble the steering assembly.
a) Insert the steering stem back into the frame.
b) Place the upper bearing and seal onto the stem. Thread the spanner nut back
onto the stem. Torque spanner nut to factory recommended levels.
c) Place the top triple clamp and washer back into place thread the top nut back on
and torque to factory recommended levels.
d) Turn the assembly left and right to check for binding.
10) Maintenance.
a) It may be necessary to re-torque the spanner nut after the new bearings settle
into place.
11) Install All Balls Racing sticker.