bleeding brakes

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30 Apr 2014 17:18 #630955 by wikreigs
bleeding brakes was created by wikreigs
I took off and cleaned the front master cylinder from my 83 650. re-assembled put new fluid in. I cannot get the lever to pump up using the manual method . I think the parts are all good. Why can't I get any lever pressure? Do I need a vacuum bleeder?

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30 Apr 2014 18:23 #630964 by 650ed
Replied by 650ed on topic bleeding brakes
If you want to give it a try, here's a homemade vacuum bleeder. Ed

www.kzrider.com/forum/21-tools/318093-bu...brake-bleeder#318093

1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)

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30 Apr 2014 19:40 #630974 by JimB
Replied by JimB on topic bleeding brakes
I had a similar problem. I had luck getting pressure in stages. Start off with no line attached and just use you finger to to cover the hole at the mc. Pump it and you should feel pressure and air escaping. Your finger will not let air in but will let air out. Once fluid is pushing out at that opening then add the first brake line and repeat. Once fluid is coming out of the opening at the end of the line then connect it to the brake and pump again while holding you finger on the bleeder. It takes a while but you have to work the fluid thru. If you do not feel any pressure at the mc hole then you have another issue. Most likely the relief hole in the mc is not able to relief pressure so you will have to adjust your lever to allow the pressure piston to come out past the relief hole, if that makes sense.

1978 KZ1000A2, 1980 KZ1000E, 1980 KZ1000B4 LTD

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  • ThatGPzGuy
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03 May 2014 07:31 #631192 by ThatGPzGuy
Replied by ThatGPzGuy on topic bleeding brakes
Did you bench bleed the MC first? I usually work the lever while watching the relief hole for bubbles. You have to gently move the lever in and out to coax the bubbles out. Unless you do that first bleeding at the caliper is almost a waste of time. You don't have to remove the MC just work the lever while the MC is attached.

Jim
North GA
2016 Yamaha FJR1300ES
1982 GPz750 R1
1974 Kawasaki H1
1976 Kawasaki KZ400
1979 Yamaha XS650 cafe'
2001 KZ1000P
2001 Yamaha YZ426
1981 Honda XR200 stroked in an '89 CR125 chassis
1965 Mustang
1967 Triumph GT6
1976 Bronco
"If you didn't build it, it's not really yours"

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04 May 2014 06:21 #631270 by Nessism
Replied by Nessism on topic bleeding brakes
In other words, you need to prime the master to get the thing pumping. You can do this with the master installed using a vacuum pump, or even by drawing a vacuum on one of the caliper bleeder nipples with a piece of hose using your mouth. Be careful of the later technique for obvious reasons though.

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05 May 2014 16:19 #631441 by wikreigs
Replied by wikreigs on topic bleeding brakes
Thanks jimB I got pressure in stages like you said. Worked great! Now on to the Carbs.

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05 May 2014 18:07 #631460 by JimB
Replied by JimB on topic bleeding brakes
Glad it worked for you. Brakes are easy compared to getting carbs tuned properly

1978 KZ1000A2, 1980 KZ1000E, 1980 KZ1000B4 LTD

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06 May 2014 14:20 #631554 by gengomerpyle
Replied by gengomerpyle on topic bleeding brakes
vacuum bleeders work great, and do the job quick.

1982 GPZ750R1 ELR
1978 Honda CB750F SuperSport
1971 Honda CB750K
1970 Honda CL100 Scrambler

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