Fork Oil / O-Rings

Previous owner mentioned that the front forks needs the fluid changed and new O-Rings installed. I've watched videos and read how to the do the oil, but what about the O-Rings? Do the forks have to come off? And how do you know when those need to get replaced?

Lastly, I need to get it taken in to get a new front tire installed, would it make more sense to just have the shop do it when it's there then?

Thanks!

What "o-rings" was he referring to (see diagram)? If you do take it apart or have someone else take it apart I recommend you change the fork oil seals and dust shields while you're at it. Ed

Pretty sure he was talking about the seals. How can you tell if fluid needs to be changed and the seals?

If you carefully lift the dust shields up and slide them up the forks you should be able to tell if the seals are leaking – they will be wet. If they are dry, they probably are ok.

The fork oil should be changed on a regular basis. If you don’t know the last time it was changed you should go ahead and change it, and then change it every two years. It is not a difficult task. Do you have the Kawasaki Service Manual? The procedure is described in there. If you don’t have one you really should get one. They are worth their weight in gold, and no KZ (or GpZ) owner should be without one. They usually are available on eBay, but be sure to get one that covers your exact year and model as there are differences. Ed

I will check out what's going on under the dust shields this evening.

I have The Bible downloaded from here which had some info on there and had watched a bunch of videos and read some articles on it. Doesn't seem too hard at all. But it seems like the forks have to come off if replacing the seals. Pretty sure I'm just going to have the shop do all this when I take it in for the tire. Should do the front brakes while in there too.

For a long as I've been working on cars, I still don't like doing suspension work. Just too much riding on it (literally). Actually just had my Monte Carlo in for a whole front suspension rebuild. Super easy to do, but don't trust myself with it haha. Better safe than sorry.

Thanks!

Picked up dust cover and the right side is wet, so looks like needs to get replaced. Sad.

Went to the local shop and got quoted $350 to replace the seals and change the oil. Does that sound about right? Need to get a new front tire put on which I have, so will get that done at the same time too.

The click noise is still going on which sounds bad while riding at higher speeds and it sounds like wheels bearings are bad. Makes like a whirling noise again at higher speeds.

Since I don't want to pay the shop for parts because of markups, are there full fork kits and/or wheel bearing kits available? Don't want to do piece by piece. Trying to get everything rushed here by next week. Thanks!

$350 sounds like a lot to me, but I'm cheap, so I do my own work. The seals cost $15 for the pair. Ed

I would be down for doing them myself but I don't have the room to do it. Rather not spend $350 but never taken forks off a bike before.

Ok so it's getting worse (nose dives pretty bad) and I'm going to try to do this myself and save the money. I do have to get the front tire installed so that'll be done, and will be about $35 from a shop to get that installed when bringing in the tire and wheel.

So since I have to take everything apart, what ideally should be replaced? Obviously need the seals and oil. The dust shields are in great shape and stick solid on there, so will reuse those. I'm thinking should do the wheel bearings too and new pads up front. Maybe new rotor too depending on the condition it is.

Anything else? I want to get all the parts in and be able to tear down and replace in one day... no waiting around with it partially torn apart.
Thanks

Wheel bearings will be a good idea. Always a plus to replace them.

Since I'm right in the middle of replacing the seals my forks, I will offer some suggestions. First, drain as much of the fluid as you can. In Ed's diagram up there, assembly number 44022 is held on by an socket head bolt (92001) that goes into the bottom of the lower fork tube. I highly suggest getting an impact wrench, either air or electric to get it out. It will loosen slightly, and 44002 will just spin around inside the tube. Try to get it out before removing the top cap (44029).

If that does not work, you will have to remove the top cap and the spring. Some manuals suggest using a wooden dowel shaved to a point, slid into the tube, and jammed into the top of 44022. Then try to get the bolt out. I tried that, and wound up breaking the dowel, leaving the point behind. I ended up taking a piece of metal half inch round, grinding a gradual point on one end, then something i could get a box end wrench to hold on the other end. Jammed it in there, held it with a wrench, and impacted the bolt out. Then it was a matter of getting 44022 off of the metal round. Took a deep socket and slid it over the metal round and hammered it with the socket until it fell off.

Also, if you decide to use a seal puller, be careful you don't mar the inside of the tube with the point of the puller and the top of the tube with the top of the puller. Work your way around gently, using a rag or something under the puller.

Check the upper, chrome part of the fork (44013) for pits in the finish. If they are deep or there are lots of them, you may want to replace the fork. The pits will tear up any seal you put in it.

Best of luck!

In case you've forgotten about your nOObie fork question topic - click!
The GPz750 fork innards may be pretty much the same as the 650-CSR.

If your forks have the inner 19mm top on it as martin_csr's post suggested, it makes this a lot easier. Take a look at his post.