Handlebar doesn't turn freely! Bearings adjust?

Should I try to adjust or grease/check/replace?
Where to get spanner wrench?
Thanks.

I would replace the steering head bearings. They should turn smooth and easy. There are kits which have Tapered Roller Bearings and both grease seals. While it is nice to have the special tool for the nut, it is not the only way. Some have made a tool, others would use what they have. Probably hard to get the exact pre-load from the service manual, unless you can attach a torque wrench to your tool that you use. This pre-load needs to be pretty close, or you can be to stiff, causing hard return to center after a corner. To loose and you could have a head wobble at speed. But bad bearings will be just as bad or worse than either.

if i have anything weird happen with my neck bearings and i don't know exactly when i replaced them.

then i buy new ones and put them in and properly adjust them and roll.

i call properly adjusted,
tightened down until the front is very stiff to turn and then back it off to where it is free with no slack.

while cruising down the road you can use the front brake and watch the steering stem bolt head and watch for it to move forward while applying the front brake.
which will indicate that you have slack in the bearings.

leon

Lock nut tool. I've tried searching for something like this socket tool to torque the lock nut properly. Measurement B=35mm which is too small. On my 81 650 B=40mm, but on the KZ1000E, it might be 42 mm or larger.
I've toyed w the idea of trying to make a tool like that - buy a cheap socket then cut it down.
A mom-n-pop type pawn shop might have a pile of old junk sockets. Or HF or an auto parts store may have a cheap chinese socket. 40mm is ~1-5/8". 42 mm is ~1-11/16"

martin_csr wrote: Lock nut tool. I've tried searching for something like this socket tool to torque the lock nut properly. Measurement B=35mm which is too small. On my 81 650 B=40mm, but on the KZ1000E, it might be 42 mm or larger.
I've toyed w the idea of trying to make a tool like that - buy a cheap socket then cut it down.
A mom-n-pop type pawn shop might have a pile of old junk sockets. Or HF or an auto parts store may have a cheap chinese socket. 40mm is ~1-5/8". 42 mm is ~1-11/16"

That type tool can be made and would be good to have when installing new bearings. The only drawback is that it can only be used when the top of the triple tree has been removed. That's why I opted to make an adapter to attach a spanner type wrench to a torque wrench. That was very easy to make. The tool can be used without disassembling the triple tree, so re-adjusting the steering can be done with a minimal level of effort. The really important part is using the torque wrench adapter formula to calculate the correct torque wrench setting to ensure proper torque is applied. This is necessary because the length of the adapter applies additional leverage, so if the formula is not used to calculate the appropriate torque wrench setting the bearing will be over-tightened. Ed

KZRider - -Tighten steering stem locknut - ->> w 650ed's homemade lock nut spanner

For a wrench I use an old shock spring tool with just a bit of grinding. (on the tool)

Ball bearings suc*, if any doubt replace with tapered rollers.
To test, get the front wheel off the ground.
With the front wheel straight. Push and pull the front tire in a straight line.
Any movement? You will feel it NOT see it. Replace.
Turn from stop to stop using the tire NOT the bars.
Feel anything like little detents? If Kind of like a really smooth working ratchet?
If yes, replace.
Once the balls start to go, they are GONE.
There is NO regreasing or adjustments with the stock setup.