Rebuilding Forks

Trying to rebuild the forks on my 1978 KZ 1000 LTD, and have a few questions.

I tried to loosen the dampening rod with an impart wrench before removing the fork springs, no such luck. I've seen online where a 7/16 nut can be installed on a piece of allthread, and then inserted in the forks to hold the end of the dampening rod. Is this 7/16 thread size, or 7/16 head size?

My fork tubes have a few pits that will go past the new seals. I know I could try and repair them, but I would rather have new/good used ones. I've found that Z1Enterprises only carries tubes for the z1 and kz1000a bikes. I think they may be shorter than the ones used in the LTDs. Can they be used? If not, are there any sources for new LTD tubes?

Hopefully yours will have the hex depression. If you are unlucky, you may find the fork cylinder simply has a round hole rather than a hex depression. If that is the case there are several ways to hold the cylinder from moving. Some folks use a whittled down wooden dowel. I made a holder for mine from metal with a rubber tip (see kzrider.com/forum/21-tools/318027-budget...linder-holder#318027 ). Also, Race Tech sells a tool that is supposed to work well; you can see it (top row, middle picture) at www.racetech.com/page/id/70 . Ed

Thanks for the tip. I like the idea of a rubber tipped tool better than a broom handle. The end of the rod LOOKS round, but it's hard to tell by shining a flashlight down a tube that's only 2" across. Maybe I can borrow a boroscope from work.

I called Z1 about those fork tubes about 3 months ago. He told me the tubes they carry will not work for an LTD and at that time didn't know of any sources for new tubes.

I'm in the same place as you, my LTD tubes have a few pits in them. I plan to sand the pits in the tubes lightly and change the seals and see how long they last. Not yet sure exactly what I will use to sand them with, maybe some very fine emery cloth. Put the tube in a lathe and go easy on it. Hopefully since there wont be sharp edges for the seal to rider over...they will hold a few years. Maybe. If not then I'll be researching having them re-chromed. Gotta be a shop that can do it.

Is your top bolt a 17mm hex?

I'm not sure about the 7/16" being the thread or head size.

For fork tubes you may want to check out these folks: www.frankmain.com

Also, eBay:
www.ebay.com/dsc/i.html?_sop=10&LH_Title...t=0&_odkw=44013-1003

I've looked at a few options. A few on other forums had used jb-weld to fill the pits and then sanded flat. I may consider this, but I don't want to have to go through this whole process in another year or two.

One option is Forking by Frank. They can make fork tubes for anything. I need to call them as they have not yet responed to my email. If they sell tubes comparable to the price of Z1 I'll buy a set.

I'm not sure what you mean by "top bolt". The damper rod is at the bottom of the fork and needs to be removed before the inner fork tube can be sepearated from the outer.

I meant cap bolt, #2 in the pic 650ed posted. What size is that damper rod bolt on the bottom you are trying to break loose? It's another hex head right? Trying to be sure I have everything I need before I pull my forks off the bike. I'm going to try with an impact and see if maybe I get lucky.

I would think a shop could re-chrome the tubes. Is there a reason no-one ever seems to go that route? I've looked at NOS tubes on ebay myself....spendy!

In case you missed it - by 650ed: For fork tubes you may want to check out these folks: ... www.frankmain.com

my forks have rings connected with a steel pipe for pressure equalization, how to remove them , the right leg has pitting and has to be replaced

Well, I got them apart today! Just wish I had remembered the snap ring holding the fork seal in! I broke my Harbor Freight seal remover in half trying to pry the seal out!

I found an easy "tool" to hold the damper in place. My dampers didn't end up having a hex. I just installed a rubber vacuum cap on the end of a long 3/8 extension. It was just the right size to wedge into the center of the damper. I installed a t-handle on the end of the extension and used my feet to hold it from spinning while I hit the bolt with an impact.

The retaining plug was a 1/2 square. Just use a 1/2 ratchet with no socket needed. Break it loose before you remove the tubes from the trees, otherwise the fork tube will just want to spin. Also, the spring is pushing up on the plug, so put a rag over it as you loosen it. Mine wasn't under a lot of tension, but you don't want to take the chance of it popping up and smacking you in the face.

The bottom bolt holding the damper was a 8mm hex.

And while they can be rechromed, I can't imagine it being any cheaper than a new set. I'll let you know the price when I get ahold of Forking by Frank.

nitrokeeb wrote: The retaining plug was a 1/2 square.

On mine (1977 LTD) its a 17mm hex, I thought the 78 LTD's were too. Would be easier if it were a 1/2 square but that's ok.

nitrokeeb wrote: The bottom bolt holding the damper was a 8mm hex.

I'll just buy a set to have ready, since my cap bolt is different the bottom bolt may be too.

nitrokeeb wrote: And while they can be rechromed, I can't imagine it being any cheaper than a new set. I'll let you know the price when I get ahold of Forking by Frank.

Please do, I would like to know the cost of new ones from him vs. having the originals re-chromed.


I'm needing to tear into mine too but I think I'm going to wait until the winter. If I tear them apart now I'll miss the rest of the summer.