83 KZ750f1 SHAFT: Clutch not disengaging/ engaging

I say good day.

The scoop:

Picked up 1983 kz750 F1 (shaft) that I knew needed a starter clutch rebuild,rebuilt it, still same issue with spinning out. Picked up parts bike (two actually), and replaced the secondary shaft completely (with starter clutch). bike starts fine now after carb rebuild.

The problem:

Put it back together, got it running great and went to go ride it (helmet and all), only to put it gear and it stalls nor the clutch works. Adjusted the clutch cable again, still no bueno.

My thought:

The clutch release shaft feels that there is no resistance. I went by the book and installed the clutch release within the 70 to 80 degrees.

The question:

Does anyone know if the clutch release shaft is supposed to be turned completely backward (as in the shaft is turned to what I think is disengaged) or forwards, when you put the release to 70-80 degrees?

I rebuilt the clutch again last night because I was thinking that the plates where stuck together. I applied a thin film on the fiber plates, yada yada. the trouble shooting in the book list that maybe the clutch hub nut is too tight: backed it out and torqued it back to spec= 98 ft lbs, along with the clutch spring bolts= 78 in lbs. I have not sealed it up yet just incase someone tells me that I need to take the front gear case off.

thank you for reading and hope to get your helpful feedback.

If referring to the clutch push-rod adjustment, is the screw being turned counter-clockwise until it seats, and then reversed 1/2 turn before tightening the lock nut?

Or being turned clockwise until it seats, and then reversed 1/2 turn before tightening the lock nut?

Some manuals are confusing (or wrong) about whether to start counter-clockwise or clockwise toward initially seating the screw before reversing 1/2 turn and tightening the lock nut.

Could try it again in the opposite direction and see what happens.





Good Fortune!

You dont know how many times I have read your reply's to other peoples stuff on here not being a memeber and just google searching Patton... thanks for your reply.

I am refering to the left side of the motor (shifter side) where the clutch cable is connected to an arm (clutch release lever). The the shaft that sticks down (clutch release shaft)and is connected to the lever. I installed the lever with the shaft turned all the way clockwise (turned to the rear) the first time. literally just came in after installing the lever with the shaft turned just past what feels like, the clutch release rack going into position.

will post picture tonight

Honeslty think that KZR should make a Shaft model section.

Was thinking of the screw type versus ball-ramp type clutch activator mechanisms.

But here's a diagram from kawasaki.com which shows a different style clutch actuator mechanism.




Am uncertain as to which shop manual is being used.
This link is for a free service manual download, which might or might not include better advice as to the particular clutch activator mechanism at hand.
kz.bike-night.com/media/GPz750-full.pdf

Am guessing the shaft and chain versions have the same clutch activator mechanisms.

Good Fortune!

I have the red Kawasaki KZ750 Shaft model shop manual, along with the Clymer that has nothing in it when it comes down to shaft versions unfortunately. I feel that I may have fixed it, just do not know until I seal it up/dry, fill it with oil and fire it up. Honestly do not want to have to take the clutch down again so looking waiting a day or to to be sure. Keep it coming though.

front gear case on Shaft model



This is the clutch release lever im talking about (BLUE). Behind the black cap (RED) is where I can visually see the clutch release rack moving (just discovered this last night). Hopefully putting the release lever on when that rack is fully pushed out is the right move.

Any takers?

I figured it out.

So if you have trouble with your clutch release not allowing your clutch to engaging/ disengaging after your install:

-The Clutch Release Rack needs to be poisitioned at a quarter turn back by turning the clutch release shaft(clockwise)to the rear of the bike, then back a quarter turn (roughly). This allows for proper positioning when your clutch basket is giving resistance to your clutch release.

-Do not have your clutch release lever hooked up (attached to clutch cable/spring) while you are installing the clutch. This will not allow the release to work properly (stuck basically)

-Be sure to set your clutch cable to proper setting before closing up the clutch cover. Check for good movement: too little space will make your clutch extemely tough, too much will make your clutch feel "mushy". Put your top adjustment at the clutch handle all the way in (at handlebars)to allow for fine adjustments later.

try, try again. took me a minute.