Shortening the front forks on a 750LTD

Hatchet wrote:

650ed wrote: Did you loosen the top fork clamp bolt first ...

Yes, I most definitely did...Didn't help, though. That thing is in there solid....

Could apply dry ice to top of 44029 just before attempting to remove it.

Using a torch to apply heat to the upper fork tube before applying the dry ice might also help.
If top of tube is hidden inside the clamp, heat it underneath the clamp.
Another option is to loosen both top and bottom clamp bolts, and slide the clamp further down on the tubes (do this with both fork tubes) to expose tops of tubes above the clamp. Then tighten only the bottom clamps. This should result in better access to top of the fork tubes.

After all the above, repeat the torch heat to top of tube, and apply dry ice to top of 44029 just before attempting to remove it.

If 44029 remains stuck, apply Kroil or liquid wrench or PJBlaster or 50-50 acetone/ATF mixture where it may seep down into the threads. May require constant soaking for a day or so. Would be okay to wrap a small piece of rag around 44029 to remain soaked with the penetrant.

After all the soaking, try again with the heat and dry ice.

Good Fortune!

ok, first bike, so here are few free tips,
1. impact wrenches are for cars, not bikes, never ever used one in 30 years of wrenching.
2. torque wrenches are for torquing down bolts, not releasing frozen ones, use a normal ratchet.
3. you dont hit wrenches, ratchets or whatever with mallets. Might look manly on "American chopper" but pros use a bar breaker or a tube extension.
4. best tip of all, use your head and plan ahead - bike almost fell over? think on how to counter the torque you apply to the wrench safely and without turning the bars till the steering stops (that you'll surely bend if cap is tight)

And you probally need to check the torque calibration on that torque wrench as it might of been affected by trying to remove the bolts. I only use a torque wrench to torque bolts.If you didnt know there is a proper way to use a torque wrench to get accurate torques.

Big hammers should not be used on wrenches; their use should be limited to fine tuning carbs:

any update? howd the front end feel without the spacers?

650ed wrote: Big hammers should not be used on wrenches; their use should be limited to fine tuning carbs:

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Unless you are working on a HD :whistle: Hence the nickname, Harley tool......

There is a thread here within the last year detailing how to shorten them properly without modifying the preload spacer.

I use an impact wrench on clutch centre nuts, no serious bike workshop would be without one.
Done them with 1 metre breaking bars and a nightclub bouncer mate ( like very powerful) but it is stupidity.

Don't be wacking things they will pay you back and break, go to Harbor freight and buy a breaker bar for $15 bucks, I bought one for changing tires on my BMW z3 when I autocrossed it, it has a lot of leverage.
You can also just get a piece of pipe that will fit over your wrench but don't be using your torque wrench, it's amazing the leverage you get but just adding a couple feet to your wrench handle length.

off topic...The clever thing about an impact driver is it shakes the nut off, also excessive tourque can break clutch baskets, even with the holding tool -done it.

Tyrell Corp wrote: There is a thread here within the last year detailing how to shorten them properly without modifying the preload spacer..

link?


link please