Fork Disassembly & Assembly, special tools needed?

I didn't realize the bike was apart, but since it is, have you thought about replacing the steering stem bearings? The tapered roller bearings totally eliminate the notch behavior that worn, stock ball type bearings can have. That is one of the very few changes I've made to my stock bike, and I'm very happy with the results. It was a big improvement on my bike for tiny $$. Ed

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationOk, you must be some kind of a mind reader Ed! Even though mine feel ok I ordered these about the time you posted here last!



I just hope they're good quality


I'll prob do all 5 wheel bearings too when it's stripped that far

Looks like may have to use something other than Bel-Ray, $32 through eBay, $32 delivery too.

I dont know if you guys have Silkolene over there but it should be ok.

i dont know about over filling and drilling holes in the dampners,i just fill to stock level with the 30w synthetic motor oil after measuring it in a metric measuring cup.
no need to use the tool to hold dampner if you have an air ratchet,same goes for reassembly.
definately go with the tapered steering head bearings.

wireman wrote: i dont know about over filling and drilling holes in the dampners,i just fill to stock level with the 30w synthetic motor oil after measuring it in a metric measuring cup.
no need to use the tool to hold dampner if you have an air ratchet,same goes for reassembly.
definately go with the tapered steering head bearings.

I don't recommend using an impact wrench to tighten the bolts because it is not possible to accurately measure the amount of torque being applied. I've seen too many truck wheel lugs wrung off using such a tool to tighten lug nuts, and they are tougher than fork bolts, so my view is why take that risk when it is so easy to simply make a tool to do the job safely? Using a tool to hold the fork cylinder while using a torque wrench to tighten the bolt is the only way I know to ensure the bolt is tightened to the correct torque. As far as the fluid to be used, I don't use fork oil in my motor or motor oil in my forks. :laugh: Ed

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationWell the silkolene seems to be slightly cheaper than the Bel-Ray Fork Oil (over here anyway)

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KZ250LTD wrote: Not to bash belray but for the most part fork oil is fork oil, on a 35 year old bike I doubt you'll notice the difference between $35 fluid and $12 fluid...

I agree, that's why I always use Bel-Ray. It costs about $11.00. If your dealer is charging $35 it's time to find a better dealer. Ed

www.powersportsuperstore.com/Bel-Ray-Hig...4039.htm?Click=35177

This may help clarify how the front forks control compression and rebound:

I used 15W fork oil in my 79 750 twin and the front end was way to stiff. Rumble strips on the road would jar your teeth loose.
Switched to Progressive fork springs with 10w fork oil and it made an amazing improvement.

I,m no pro and you'll find many different theory on front forks but to keep it simple . Use standard wt oil ,then raise oil level to create more stiffness when forks compress down.lower fork oil level to create a softer cushion feel . It seemed you had to much oil and to heavy a wt..The only way to adjust rebound is to open up valve inside forks,but i wood not play with it.

steell wrote: Switched to Progressive fork springs with 10w fork oil and it made an amazing improvement.

Do you have any lying about in your parts dept Steve? :lol: