Installing front fork top bolts

Topper
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Installing front fork top bolts

06 Nov 2011 13:08

Is there some kind trade secret to installing the front fork top bolts?

I'm pushing as hard as I can against the fork springs, I'm getting the top bolts down into the sockets and turning, but the buggers won't catch.

Is there some trick to this that I'm missing? Or do I just need more strength and physical coordination?

Thanks.

Permanent and perpetual noob.

1979 KZ750 Twin
2009 Kawasaki Versys

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Re: Installing front fork top bolts

06 Nov 2011 13:12

#487223

Make sure the Forks are completely weight free, front tire off of the ground. I use a socket, then a ratchet, pushing down and turning. It does take some pressure, especially if you add some spacers for preload like I did on the LTD.

1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...

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650ed
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Re: Installing front fork top bolts

06 Nov 2011 13:33

#487227

Are your top fork clamps loosened? I find on mine I cannot hardly remove the fork top bolts with those top clamps tight, so starting them back in would probably be difficult with those clamps tight. Ed

1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)

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Topper
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Re: Installing front fork top bolts

06 Nov 2011 13:45 - 06 Nov 2011 15:02

#487228

Strength and coordination did the trick. I found a block to stand on so I could really put my weight on it. Got it about 5 minutes after my post.

Measured my fork oil. Or tried to. It doesn't appear to be there. DOH! Time to drain and refill.

Edit: Note to my fellow noobs: This is A LOT easier to do when the bike is on the center stand. I was trying to do it with the bike on the side stand.

Permanent and perpetual noob.

1979 KZ750 Twin
2009 Kawasaki Versys

Last edit: 06 Nov 2011 15:02 by Topper.

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Re: Installing front fork top bolts

06 Nov 2011 13:51

#487229

Did you take the caps off to just measure? If you haven't done it a fork oil change is probably way over due. Any signs of seal leaks? The oil has to of gone somewhere. Get some fork seals and fork oil, and have another go at it.

1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...

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Topper
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Re: Installing front fork top bolts

06 Nov 2011 15:08

#487233

There was some oil in there, but it was a little low. Plus being a noob I don't think I realized just how little oil is in there to begin with.

The seals don't show any sign of wear (no leaks) so I think I'm OK.

I drained refilled and measured per the specs in my manual. I also measured the free length of the springs. All seems in good order now.

Tip for other noobs: When measuring the amount of oil in the forks use a long clear relatively rigid tube.

Put the tube all the way in and mark it where the top of the forks are with a sharpie. Then take the tube out and dry it off. Measure from your mark to the spec in your manual for proper fill and make another mark with the sharpie. Now put the tube back in, but this time before removing the tube put your finger over the hole and pull the tube out. The oil will stay in the tube and you'll see exactly how much you've got in there.

Permanent and perpetual noob.

1979 KZ750 Twin
2009 Kawasaki Versys

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Re: Installing front fork top bolts

06 Nov 2011 15:13

#487235

I don't think you will get the accurate measurement that way. As the piece of tubing won't be able to measure down past the valving in the forks.
You can use several tools from the top, like a tape measure and flash light. There are of course purpose built tools for it.

1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...

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650ed
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Re: Installing front fork top bolts

06 Nov 2011 15:48 - 06 Nov 2011 15:49

#487239

Topper wrote: There was some oil in there, but it was a little low. Plus being a noob I don't think I realized just how little oil is in there to begin with.

The seals don't show any sign of wear (no leaks) so I think I'm OK.

I drained refilled and measured per the specs in my manual. I also measured the free length of the springs. All seems in good order now.

Tip for other noobs: When measuring the amount of oil in the forks use a long clear relatively rigid tube.

Put the tube all the way in and mark it where the top of the forks are with a sharpie. Then take the tube out and dry it off. Measure from your mark to the spec in your manual for proper fill and make another mark with the sharpie. Now put the tube back in, but this time before removing the tube put your finger over the hole and pull the tube out. The oil will stay in the tube and you'll see exactly how much you've got in there.

That is not a good way to measure your fork oil level. Just jack up the front of the bike so the front tire is off the gound; leave the springs in; use a thin wooden dowel and measure from the top of the fork tube to the oil; fill until that measurement equals the spec in the book. Below are instructions from manual. Your fork oil level will vary from that in the KZ650 table, but the process is the same.

Attachment ForkOilLevel.JPG not found

Attachment ForkOil.JPG not found

1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)

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Last edit: 06 Nov 2011 15:49 by 650ed.

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TexasKZ
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Re: Installing front fork top bolts

06 Nov 2011 21:42 - 06 Nov 2011 21:42

#487293

Maybe I just don't get it, but I think what he described is ok. He made a mark that represents the top of the fork tube and another one that is for the oil level, and then by stopping up the tube with the upper mark aligned with the top of the fork tube, he can actually see the oil level in relation to the mark. Unless some of the oil leaks out of his clear tube, then I think this would work. Heck, even if some did leak out, there ought to be enough clinging to the tube to get a reading, kinda like a dipstick.

1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
1981 KZ1000 LTD awaiting resurrection
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Last edit: 06 Nov 2011 21:42 by TexasKZ.

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Topper
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Re: Installing front fork top bolts

06 Nov 2011 21:52

#487297

TexasKZ wrote: Maybe I just don't get it, but I think what he described is ok. He made a mark that represents the top of the fork tube and another one that is for the oil level, and then by stopping up the tube with the upper mark aligned with the top of the fork tube, he can actually see the oil level in relation to the mark. Unless some of the oil leaks out of his clear tube, then I think this would work. Heck, even if some did leak out, there ought to be enough clinging to the tube to get a reading, kinda like a dipstick.

Right, at first I just used the tube as a dipstick. It's fairly rigid and I didn't have a dowel or metal rod that was long and thin enough.

But it was a little hard to see the oil on the outside of the tube. Stopping up the tube and holding the oil in worked perfectly.

It was just like playing with milk in a straw when I was a kid.

Permanent and perpetual noob.

1979 KZ750 Twin
2009 Kawasaki Versys

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650ed
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Re: Installing front fork top bolts

06 Nov 2011 23:09

#487313

Topper wrote:

TexasKZ wrote: Maybe I just don't get it, but I think what he described is ok. He made a mark that represents the top of the fork tube and another one that is for the oil level, and then by stopping up the tube with the upper mark aligned with the top of the fork tube, he can actually see the oil level in relation to the mark. Unless some of the oil leaks out of his clear tube, then I think this would work. Heck, even if some did leak out, there ought to be enough clinging to the tube to get a reading, kinda like a dipstick.

Right, at first I just used the tube as a dipstick. It's fairly rigid and I didn't have a dowel or metal rod that was long and thin enough.

But it was a little hard to see the oil on the outside of the tube. Stopping up the tube and holding the oil in worked perfectly.

It was just like playing with milk in a straw when I was a kid.

That's fine if it worked for you. I just can't imagine a piece of tubing that wouldn't have some curl to it and as a result hang up on the springs when trying to lower it into the fork. Maybe if it was rigid like a glass tube, but all the tubing I use for stuff tends to curve. Could be I just buy cheap tubing. :laugh:

1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)

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