Oxalic Acid

  • ed spangler
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01 Apr 2011 10:24 - 01 Apr 2011 10:26 #441902 by ed spangler
Oxalic Acid was created by ed spangler
MFolks ( Anyone else) Got my 4lbs of Oxalic Acid from Greg.
I need some help / clarification please on a couple details. Well maybe more than couple, hoping you can provide some "General" info.
1.) Gonna mix in a 5 gal. bucket before pouring in my gas tank. Hot or cold water?
2.) What "DOSING" do you use i.e. 4 heaping Tablespoons / 1 cup acid to the water?
3.) How long for the first "Soak" 1 hr? 24 hrs?
4.)If the tank is filled completely to top of filler neck is there a need to turn the tank over or rotate? ( Would think not but gonna ask to be sure )
5.) If first attempt removes the majority of the rust do you go for a second attempt?
Sorry guys! I am a "Details" kinda guy, tanks are too expensive for me to ruin by not doing this correctly.
Please Advise

Have 1975 Kawasaki Z1-B & 2003 Harley Davidson Heritage Softail Classic
Had Hondas, Harleys and many ,many Z Series Kaws both Std. & LTD's
Last edit: 01 Apr 2011 10:26 by ed spangler.

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  • z1kzonly
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01 Apr 2011 11:44 #441921 by z1kzonly
Replied by z1kzonly on topic Oxalic Acid
Thanks for the reminder. I seen this post a month ago. Took me a while to back in to this site.
I want to purchase some also. Need the contact info. They had a cell # and a ebay link.

Before you start, I would put a handfull of 1/4" nuts and bolts etc. with some soapy water.
Then shake rattle and roll it around first. This way you can get all the worst scale and loose rust out first. Rinse and drain it of course.
This way when you do put in the mixture of acid in, it does not have to react with the first stuff you just cleaned out! It can react and work longer. Just my opinion.

And if you need to rinse and dry it out, use 50/50 mixture of acetone and water. it will evaporate dry!

Remember SAFTEY! EYE AND HAND PROTECTION! even if it says it's safe.

Marty in Buffalo

Take some before and after picture for us to see the change

Livin in "CheektaVegas, NY
Went thru 25 of these in 40 yrs.
I SOLD OUT! THE KAW BARN IS EMPTY.
More room for The Old Girl, Harley 75 FLH Electra Glide,
Old faithful! Points ign. Bendix Orig. carb.
Starts everytime!

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03 Apr 2011 07:20 #442304 by boyracer
Replied by boyracer on topic Oxalic Acid

ed spangler wrote: MFolks ( Anyone else) Got my 4lbs of Oxalic Acid from Greg.


Is this sold as wood bleach also? chemical designation?

Been told to use this by a guy locally who restores old side valve harleys.
Want to use it on some rusty / weathered parts on Z1R.

What will it do to the black chrome on my Yoshi pipe?

I need to free the baffle rusted in HARD.

Attachment S5000974.JPG not found

Attachments:

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03 Apr 2011 07:55 - 03 Apr 2011 07:59 #442306 by Patton
Replied by Patton on topic Oxalic Acid

boyracer wrote: ...What will it do to the black chrome on my Yoshi pipe?
I need to free the baffle rusted in HARD....

Attachment S5000974.JPG not found


If not already done, would assure the baffle retention screw has been removed. The screw is likely located at either 9 o'clock or 6 o'clock position near end of muffler on the outside.

Use repeated applications of 50-50 ATF/acetone mixture over several days to help loosen the rust encrustment. Could remove the exhaust system and stand it on end inside a bucket partially filled with 50-50 mixture of ATF and acetone. Allow to soak for several days.

After soaking, application of heat may also help removal.
If available, a dent-puller tool might also help (or take it by the local body shop).

Might consider refinishing the exhaust system with black hi-temp spray paint (rattle can), or maybe consider ceramic coating.

Good Fortune! :)

1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Last edit: 03 Apr 2011 07:59 by Patton.

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03 Apr 2011 08:01 #442308 by boyracer
Replied by boyracer on topic Oxalic Acid
ATF? auto trans fluid? significance.....cheap/chemical properties?

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03 Apr 2011 08:27 #442312 by Patton
Replied by Patton on topic Oxalic Acid
The 50-50 mixture of ATF and acetone is reportedly superior to JBBlaster and other more costly commercial brand penetrants.

The acetone will likely remove any paint on the muffler.

Am thinking JBBlaster would be safer where more concerned with preserving an existing painted finish.

Could also consider submerged soaking in WD40, or just plain ATF without the acetone.

If it was mine, and looked that horrible, I might resort to dipping the muffler end (approx 8" or so) in muratic acid for a minute or two, then dipping in a bucket of fresh water to rinse off the acid. And repeat until most of the rust is dissolved. Then afterwards, begin the previously suggested methods (i.e., penetrant, heat), followed by refinishing.

Be careful using muratic acid (DUH), and do it outside in a well ventilated area (Double-DUH).

Good Fortune! :)

1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD

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03 Apr 2011 08:33 #442315 by Patton
Replied by Patton on topic Oxalic Acid
Other commercial penetrants would also include such brands as Kroil or Marvel Mystery Oil, which could be used alternatively for submerged soaking. :)

1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD

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  • ed spangler
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03 Apr 2011 09:19 - 03 Apr 2011 09:57 #442326 by ed spangler
Replied by ed spangler on topic Oxalic Acid
Greetings:) :)
Have spent days on several forums and contacting numerous folks by e-mail who have had success using this and some who have not , have shared their experiences as well. Heres what I have learned from all these folks,
Standard recipe supplied by "Greg" where I bought the product is 6-8 Tablespoons per gallon, no one had success at that "Recipe"/ Strength.
Those who have had success , have used a 16 heaping Tablespoons per gal. concentration mix ,( Patton, if my "kitchen math" is correct that would be one heaping "Cup" ., correct?)Mixed solution in seperate bucket / container to ensure it is thoroughly mixed / dissolved, filled tank all the way to the top, allowed to soak for 24 hours and then rinsed thorooughly with water. The Tank then allowed to dry or force dried w/ hair dryer, [/bpoured WD- in to the tank swished that around good to coat and then flushed with approx. 1 gal. of gas before installing on bike for use.These seem to be all the common procedures for success.OH Yeah, as one forum member put it (CSR?) Always add Acid to water not other way around!! WHEEEWW!! Probably spent 16 hrs doing the research on this!! Thats a LOT for an ol Gheezer who is not super computer literate!!
Cheers!!
ED

Have 1975 Kawasaki Z1-B & 2003 Harley Davidson Heritage Softail Classic
Had Hondas, Harleys and many ,many Z Series Kaws both Std. & LTD's
Last edit: 03 Apr 2011 09:57 by ed spangler. Reason: grammar

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03 Apr 2011 21:38 #442436 by boyracer
Replied by boyracer on topic Oxalic Acid

Patton wrote:

boyracer wrote: ...What will it do to the black chrome on my Yoshi pipe?
I need to free the baffle rusted in HARD....

Attachment S5000974.JPG not found


If not already done, would assure the baffle retention screw has been removed. The screw is likely located at either 9 o'clock or 6 o'clock position near end of muffler on the outside.

Use repeated applications of 50-50 ATF/acetone mixture over several days to help loosen the rust encrustment. Could remove the exhaust system and stand it on end inside a bucket partially filled with 50-50 mixture of ATF and acetone. Allow to soak for several days.

After soaking, application of heat may also help removal.
If available, a dent-puller tool might also help (or take it by the local body shop).

Might consider refinishing the exhaust system with black hi-temp spray paint (rattle can), or maybe consider ceramic coating.

Good Fortune! :)


...no rattle cans will be going near this bike. The photo is a bad angle....pipe not that bad, just carbon steel baffle( i always thought it sounded best without it! See my thread 'aussie Z1R'.
chrome will need to be removed for refinishing.

ed spangler, use heaps of product and leave for weekend at least. patience is your friend.

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