Need a little chain education

Help a noob time...

I'm seeing drive chains advertised as o-ring and non o-ring.

What does that mean?

I'd be looking for one for a 1979 KZ750 if that makes any difference.

One more thing, what should I be looking for regarding tensile strength?

o' ring chain means rollers/pins are sealed to keep trash out better.if youre not beating it unmercifully id suggest going with the middle range of tensile strength,light duty chains stretch too easy and dont last.
chain lube is secret to chain lasting

Definitely go with the o-ring or better yet x-ring chain. On an o-ring chain, there are literally o-rings between the sideplates. This keeps dirt out of the rollers and lube in. Clean and re-lube every 350 miles or so, and the newer chains should last quite a while. More tensile strength is better, but you don't need to go overboard. Higher strength = higher price. If this is for the 750 twin, middle of the road tensile strength should be just fine for that bike. Let the turbo, big block, dragracer types buy that high end stuff.

Thanks. What would middle of the road be in terms of tensile strength?

Go with O-ring or X_ring as suggested. D.I.D.makes a good chain. Replace your sprockets at the same time. If your chain is worn it has worn the sprockets. They will then prematurely wear out your new chain. Use a good chain lube every 300 miles or so (more often is better). Maxima Chain Wax works well. Check chain tension regularly according to manual; remember that too tight is as bad as too loose. New chain and sprockets properly maintained should easily last you 40,000 miles. Ed

Topper wrote:

Help a noob time...

I'm seeing drive chains advertised as o-ring and non o-ring.

What does that mean?

I'd be looking for one for a 1979 KZ750 if that makes any difference.

One more thing, what should I be looking for regarding tensile strength?

Just get the X ring chain that Z1 enterprises sells. It is the best deal on the net, believe me I looked. I also ride the 79 750 and I recall the stock chain was 102 links (?) with the stock 38T rear and 16T front. You can go up to a 17T front and still use the stock 102 link chain. Don't buy a cheap chain, get a good X rink and it will last a lot longer than a regular steel chain.


My favorite chain lube is the DuPont multi purpose spray lube in the big blue can at Lowe's.

Topper wrote:

Thanks. What would middle of the road be in terms of tensile strength?

With a 750 twin, I doubt you could find a chain with too little tensile strength..... unless you get one of those made in China specials off ebay.

I switched over to a 530 from the stock 630 on my GPZ1150. They are much lighter and actually last longer than a 630 because there is more contact area if you stay with the stock diameter. I use a Tsubaki "O" ring "Sigma" chain

bountyhunter wrote:

You can go up to a 17T front and still use the stock 102 link chain.

What would I gain from going with a 17T engine sprocket?

On a 750 twin, absolutely nothing. You don't have the HP to take advantage of it.

otakar wrote:

On a 750 twin, absolutely nothing. You don't have the HP to take advantage of it.

Ok good to know. I'd rather stay stock anyway.

Still wondering about "middle of the road" tensile strength.

I see chains advertised on bikebandit.com and other sites that are the right size, but specify they are for up to 400cc or up to 550cc bikes. Clearly I'd avoid those for my 750 twin, but other chains just list tensile strength.

Is 9,000-10,000 lbs. overkill? Is 7,000 lbs. sufficient?

I'm on a tight budget, but I obviously don't want to put on a chain that's going to break.