What is this and is it bad?

I can't really see the pics too good, but did they plate inside the bores of the caliper? First mistake if they did. The stuff isn't that strong to begin with and will wear really quickly, plus reduces the bore size. We usually painted them with a chemical resistant paint to prevent plating in areas we didn't want, and then removed the paint after.

no plating in caliper bore. the question I had was about that ring that is there in one picture and obviously not in the next. I think it is part of the piston dust boot but I don't remember taking it off there.

if its in the area where the seal sits id tell em they owe you another caliper

Marneman wrote:

Old Man Rock wrote:

I have 0% experience in plating so question for those that do...

I know it's possible to have pieces re-chromed, when this is accomplished do they somehow remove the old chrome first...

Our is the piece just roughed up and then go through process.

I would think (again no experience) that they would be able to repair this or re-do, no?

Wow...finally a question I can answer :laugh: Yeah, they have to remove and start over. Sometimes they can get it back down to just the copper coat, but the nickel plate (no actual chrome in there) must be removed. My dad would have taken it all the way back down though. Actually, he wouldn't have let it leave the shop. Should be easily fixable.

It's a really cool process, at least I thought so.. Takes your breath away though...literally, place can gag a maggot the chemical fumes are so strong.

+1 on that,
now what does this have to do with the wrong cleaning solution anyway ??? I'm confused

attacked the aluminum? :S

stop it chrome adds weight and makes you go slower

jeffasaki wrote:

stop it chrome adds weight and makes you go slower

I beg to differ, at least +5bhp.

The caliper body is aluminum, that seal ring is metal, they initially dip the the aluminum in chromatic acid, which is sulfuric acid. they had a bad reaction.
Yes, they used "glyptol" red insulator paint on areas that you don't want chrome on.

To redo it, you would have to strip that chrome off, which involves more acid and a buss bar with low voltage, DC current with the opposite polarity.
That takes a coulpe of days.

Your best bet is to start over with a $9.99 used caliper from ebay. Make sure you pop out the metal seal ring first.

Aluminum is hard to plate, it is hit or miss. That's why alot of small shops won't touch it.
My guy just does metal. EPA checks his drains once a week! Nickle has quadruppled in the last couple of years.
So has acid, copper sulfate too, this is why chrome is so much $$$

Got to send it out to a National place like Browns in KY.
But you need a $50,000 a year account.
Couple places in Cali; and a good one in PA.

Good Luck

z1kzonly wrote:

The caliper body is aluminum, that seal ring is metal, they initially dip the the aluminum in chromatic acid, which is sulfuric acid. they had a bad reaction.
Yes, they used "glyptol" red insulator paint on areas that you don't want chrome on.

To redo it, you would have to strip that chrome off, which involves more acid and a buss bar with low voltage, DC current with the opposite polarity.
That takes a coulpe of days.

Your best bet is to start over with a $9.99 used caliper from ebay. Make sure you pop out the metal seal ring first.

Aluminum is hard to plate, it is hit or miss. That's why alot of small shops won't touch it.
My guy just does metal. EPA checks his drains once a week! Nickle has quadruppled in the last couple of years.
So has acid, copper sulfate too, this is why chrome is so much $$$

Got to send it out to a National place like Browns in KY.
But you need a $50,000 a year account.
Couple places in Cali; and a good one in PA.

Good Luck

NO YU DONT Talked to Ronnie Brown a couple of months ago, gave me a quote via email, no account neccessary, They'll send u a catalogs with a price breakdown, PM me if u need further info

It look like you ended up with a leak in the masking... Looks like they had a mask inside the piston bore and tried to mask the caliper face with tape or something. Sometime during the plating cycle, the sealant leaked and allowed the plating material to contact with the parent part.
If the buildup is just on the corner and down into the dust seal groove, you might be able to file or grind off the raised material. The problem later on might be getting the dust seal to install into the groove since the groove will be filled in with chrome plating. If any plating got into the piston diameter you're out of business and will need to replace the caliper.
From the pictures it was kind of hard to tell where the over-chrome went. Try a picture from slightly further back and show the affected areas.

some platers dont have as much experience with motorcycles, they may do decent work (which by the picture it look good) but do not have experience with possible issues with bike parts, thats why a place like Browns is better, they do mostly motorcycle parts
all may not be lost, it may be possible to dremel ur way out of this but I could say for sure, chrome plating does not add that much thickness, actually very little

Alright I figured out what they are. It's called the caliper seal ring and I need some. Only problem is I can't find a source for them. Anybody got any laying around they wanna part ways with? I have a '78 LTD with the single piston calipers all the way around. The fronts best I can measure are 38mm and the rear is 42mm. If you got some let me know.