Why a 520 conversion

RonKZ650 wrote:

You can run a 220 chain if you don't mind replacing it every 500 miles:) 630 lasts a good long time because it's big and tough, a 530 lasts a certain percentage less, a 520 a certain percentage less yet. Stay big and tough is my advice. I really don't care a 150hp ninja has a 520 chain, they are made for speed, not longevity. Be a dark day in hell I get rid of the stock chain and put on a bicycle chain. Of course I'm biased to stock trim in paint and all else and stuck in my way for 40 yrs, you kids can run bicycle chain and gain that extra 1/2 HP.:laugh:

Ron, I don't disagree that a 630 chain is a very good choice, but I do have one problem with this line of thinking. The only difference between 630 and 530 is the pitch or length of the links. Both use 3/8" wide sprockets, and most of the higher end 530 chains are rated to a higher tensile strength than what is available in 630 since none of the high powered bikes use 630 any more. 530 also has more teeth on the same diameter sprocket than 630. More teeth distributes the load better IMO.

Now with that said, 520 uses 1/4" wide sprockets and so the chain is slightly more narrow. This may lead to somewhat faster wear since the load is now distributed to the 1/4" sprocket and shorter rollers.

I will agree that if you try and run a significantly smaller chain than stock, you could expect a shorter life. I think that the most crucial factor influencing chain life is proper maintenance. I clean and lube the chain on my bikes at least every 500 miles, and I keep the tension adjusted by the book. The ninja has 10,000 miles on the current 525 chain, and I just had to adjust the length for the first time. I still cannot see any appreciable wear on my sprockets, so I believe that I can go the better part of 10,000 more. I have been through 3 back tires in the same amount of time.

IMO chain wear occurs primarily from grit working it's way into the rollers and wearing the insides. Keep it clean and it will last.

Yes Patton, the 525 is an oddball. I'll probably switch to the more common 530 at the next change. FWIW, almost all the guys who switch to 520 on a liter bike are either drag racing or street racing, and for them 1/2 hp does make a difference. Any extra hp equates to more top end speed, and especially for the street racers who are often at the limit, even 1 mph advantage is the difference between getting "walked" and "walking" I do not encourage this activity.

"And not some sissy little girl's chain (like OMR's)."...

Now damn it Patton, :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: I have a beefy 630 O-ring on mine and have no intention of changing it thank you much... :laugh:

Mine stretched ~ 1/4" initially and I have not had to adjust it since... And yes, I check/lube it regularly especially before 200 mile breakfast runs we do up the hill...

If I require a .5 to 1 hp gain for a run, I'll skip lunch. Ah hell, my beast has more then enough power where she doesn't even know I have a full belly so a 1 hp gain on a street ride, not a big deal...

NOTE: For the drag/racing bike folks out there, you bet, I get it where every ounce counts and where mass weights/torques and milli seconds shaved in a run translates into a win or loss.

As for all the purdy colors available on the 530 series (chains and sprockets), not for me...

As mentioned, keep to KZ spec tensile strengths and you'll be ok or be prepared to spend the $$$ replacing every couple thousand miles or sooner pending how you ride her (cruise versus hammering the throttle)...

Regarding costs... A 9k-10k tensile strength chain (EK ZZZ O/X-Ring series) can run ya about $150 plus.... My 630 O-ring was around a $100...

Guess I am Old School, 630 for me.

I'm with Tessarossa on this.

If you spend the same dollars - the 530 chain will last longer than 630 chain.

630 O-ring and 530 x-ring are about the same price - the x-ring will outlast the o-ring on most bikes (or should I say in the hands of an average rider how only occasionally maintains the chain).

The availability of 530 chain is a reason to switch if you take long rides - not many bike shops stock 630 chain - so if you need to replace a chain on the road, the 530 will be in just about all bike shops.

520 will wear out quicker than 530 due to the width of the rollers and the more wear on the sprocket teeth.

Jeff, I've read the Z1E chain conversion guide, still finding it a little difficult to go through the website and find the proper sprockets for converting a KZ1000 to 530.

I wonder if you might list the part numbers here so some of us can quickly locate the correct sprockets to order along with a chain?

Thanks, Mike

I love my 530 chain conversion on my GPz1150 It is way outlasting my old 630 on my stock 900. The 520 chain will give you about 66% of the life of the 530, or there abouts. the problem i found is the sprocket availability for our bikes in the 520. 530 are available everywhere.

Kapahulu wrote:

Jeff, I've read the Z1E chain conversion guide, still finding it a little difficult to go through the website and find the proper sprockets for converting a KZ1000 to 530.

I wonder if you might list the part numbers here so some of us can quickly locate the correct sprockets to order along with a chain?

Thanks, Mike

530 is 5/8" pitch, 630 is 6/8" pitch
So to convert 630 chain and sprockets to 530 multiply the tooth count and chain links by 1.2 (6 divided by 5).

15t becomes 18t
33t becomes 39.6 rounded to 40t
92 link becomes 110 link

If you want more of a cruising setup, go slightly smaller on the rear.
For more acceleration go larger on the rear.
Generally keep any gearing change to just 1 or 2 teeth on the back.

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The first thing to always do is check what is on the bike today. If a previous owner changed the sprocket combination, you may reorder stock equivilent sprockets and get a surprise when the gearing is way different than you expected.