no joiner pin in drive chain!

Go to the hardware store and find some e-clips that are the right size for those pins. That has to be better that wiring the thing on there. At least they are designed for the purpose, and they are harder steel than any wire could be.

Adam, I realize you stated you called around and such but for you guys up in Canada, you can't get a Master Clip in C or Riveted styles for a motorcycle chain locally up there.. really?

Whoa... It's somewhat sad for the same time, a majority of the shops are not stocking inventory any longer...

Ah well, Z1 to the rescue... Yay Jeff! :laugh: :laugh:

Well do yourself a favor big guy, don't ride it as is, just not worth it... Too much can go way wrong in a heart beat....

Besides, you get hurt or worse, who the hell we going to Ping on when they do dumbass stuff? :blink: :huh: :dry: :woohoo: :laugh: :laugh:

All the places I talked to have parts and whatnot, just not for 630 chains (bikes and quads don;t use suck big chains anymore) I found a tractor supply place that had master links for 630 non-oring chains, mine is oring, so the clip was too thick. There is a bike shop like I said kind of a hike down the highway that has a master link for an EK 630 o ring chain, but I don't know the brand of my chain. This is one of the downsides of living in the country I guess. I don't mind though. I may just order a new chain and sprockets from Jeff next week. My only issue is I am putting on a new rim and swingarm...can you get a long chain and remove links like in a wristwatch, or do you need to now the length approximately?

Adam I have an old 630 master link you can have if you want. Not sure it's an O-ring link, I'll have to check tonight when I get home.

It's your if you want it, just PM me your address and I'll throw it in the mail tonight.

wow, you da man!

9am53 wrote:

. I don't mind though. I may just order a new chain and sprockets from Jeff next week. My only issue is I am putting on a new rim and swingarm...can you get a long chain and remove links like in a wristwatch, or do you need to now the length approximately?

You can break it so long as the master is made for the chain. Make sure the PITA O-rings get installed. And you can try a riveted master this time and not worry about a clip ever falling out. Grease the pins before assembly or you'll be putting an o-ring over a dry hole.

FWI, if you go with a clip master link the next time around, be sure to face the closed end of the clip in the direction of chain travel.

Does anyone know how to visually identify a pin that has been riveted? Cuz seriously, I can't imagine a master link chain staying together for very long without that clip. Without the clip, you can pop the sideplate off with a screwdriver, then there goes your chain! I've even had it happen to me. Took off from a stop light into slow moving traffic, felt about three bumps from the swingarm, vroom vroom, am I in neutral? looked back and my chain was lyin' in the road. About 5 minutes before that I was doin' about 85! All this led to a locked steering, lost only key while walkin' home, had to call tow truck type nightmare.

All of the other links in the chain are riveted. The act of riveting deforms the end of the pin so it is larger than the link that slipped over it. The deformation should be obvious. An "endless" chain is already riveted for you and you can't tell the difference from one link to the next.

For discussion ---

Adam, I dropped the master link in the mail last night. There was only 2 original o-rings so I threw a few others in the envelope.

I had a clip come off a few years ago on my old GSXR and the chain got spit out the back and came up and smacked the back of my helmet! I found the pin section of the master link a 100 ft down the road but the plate was at least a mile down the road! I was surprised just how far it went with just the pin section holding it together!

Safety wining the master link is a good practice.

Mine looks like the second one in pattons pic right now...

Thanks a lot steve!

seanbarney41 wrote:

Does anyone know how to visually identify a pin that has been riveted?

On an endless chain you may not be able to distinguish where the chain was joined. On a chain that was joined with a rivet-type master link the ends of the pins usually (not always) have been slightly hollowed out to aid in the peening (mushrooming). Also, the master link will usually have an oval shape instead of the usual figure 8 shape on the rest of the links.

In a pinch, I've had good luck installing a rivet-type link using a phillips bit and a small hammer. This sort of stakes the ends. I've also used a sharp centerpunch. A chain press, which I also have, IS the proper way to do it though.

FWIW, I hate thise dam things to begin with and use a clip-type whenever possible. I like to remove my chains every so oftem and give them a good cleaning in the parts washer.