Rhythmic clunking, vibrations hard to explain.

More
24 Aug 2010 13:36 #393517 by sparkn
How often have you been cleaning and oiling the chain. I found a good grunge brush at my local offroad shop and clean and lube the chain religiously. If it's kinking now, though, forget it and start fresh. You don't ever, at any speed, want the chain to break.

1979 KZ650 SR

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
09 Sep 2010 21:10 #397386 by bloglos
Ok, I've made sure the the chain is spotless and lubed. I've checked the rear sprocket and the teeth seem fine. I tried pulling the chain of the rear sprocket as suggested but I could only see about a quarter of the teeth so I'm assuming the chain isn't stretched too much. I've checked the tension and it seems fine. I don't think there are kinks in the chain, as i put it on the center stand and rotated the wheel, but frankly im not sure how obvious a kink would be to spot. The only other thing i haven't done (because i have no idea how) is removed the front sprocket cover to check the front sprocket. Can someone offer some suggestions o how to do this and what to avoid?

Ok second thing, im going to change the rear brake pads to make sure this isn't the issue, i don't think it is, but they are looking a little worn and i should get it done anyways. Im assuming i don't need to remove the rear wheel, and that i can just remove the caliper? I cant find any info or pics on how to do this though. Can anyone offer any pics or links that could help me out?

78 KZ650 C2 - Runner
77 KZ650 B1 - Project

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
09 Sep 2010 21:50 #397388 by MFolks
To access the front or engine sprocket(sometimes called the countershaft sprocket) usually requires removing the shifting lever from the shaft,sometimes removing the left footpeg assembly,a cover for the starter motor(usually 2 bolts) and then usually 4 bolts holding the sprocket cover.

While the sprocket cover is off, check the wiring going from the alternator for corrosion in the bullet connectors and good operation of the clutch throw out mechanism(it might need some grease on the moving parts.

The clutch pushrod should be checked for chain lube build up, I've found paint thinner on a rag or paper towel the best way to remove excess grease or chain lube.

1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
10 Sep 2010 05:10 #397409 by Old Man Rock
Replied by Old Man Rock on topic Rhythmic clunking, vibrations hard to explain.
Maybe I missed it but have you gone over engine mounting bolts and swing arm pivot bolt torqued to spec?

Exhaust mounts tight?

Just a thought...

1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter

Phoenix, Az

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

  • TeK9iNe
  • Offline
  • User
  • What did you do!?!
More
10 Sep 2010 06:43 - 10 Sep 2010 06:46 #397414 by TeK9iNe
TeK9iNe wrote:

Something rhythmic that increases/decreases speed regardless of gear and engine speed is attributed only to the chain and front/rear wheels.

Rarely, but sometimes, there can be a problem with the transmission/output shaft assembly.

There is a number of easy things to check:
Start with brake discs since you felt it there first - Disc warp/wear/damage Pads - wear, damage, stuck debris.
If drum in the rear - dissasemble and spec for wear/damage.

Wheels - Tire pressure, wear/damage/ balance/trueness.
Bearings - Spec, wear/damage, maintenence.

A chain is basically considered worn when it exceeds its origional length by 2% Your service limit is 323mm over a 20 link pin2pin length. Measure in several spots.
Check alignment too. It should ride on the center of the sprocket, not hard to one side or another, a little off is ok.

The manual is the best source for maintenence and ideas as to where the problem is.

GL.

B)


You might want to check a few things before throwing the cash at it. All bikes can always use a new chain and sprockets, but a little sluthing can save you $$$.
Use the manual.

Changing the brake pads is very easy. Pull off caliper, squeeze piston in slightly, throw in new pads, replace caliper, squeeze the brakes a few times.
The technical info is in the manual :P

Good Luck.

B)

Motorcycle Shop Owner/Operator

79 Kawie Z1000 LTD
81 Kawie Z1000 CSR
83 Honda VT750C A
85 Kawie GPZ900 A2
86 Zukie GS1150 EG
93 Yamie XV1100 E
Lucky to have rolled many old bikes through my doors ;)
Last edit: 10 Sep 2010 06:46 by TeK9iNe.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
10 Sep 2010 06:57 #397419 by Patton
This link should enable downloading Owners Manual.

kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_docman&...d&gid=410&Itemid=108

There's probably a downloadable KZ650 Factory Service Manual somewhere around here.

Ebay is often a good source for an FSM.

Good Fortune! :)

1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
11 Sep 2010 08:47 #397640 by bloglos
Thanks for the info on how to get the sprocket cover off. Could someone offer some pointers on how to get the rear caliper off? The rest seems simple enough.

78 KZ650 C2 - Runner
77 KZ650 B1 - Project

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
11 Sep 2010 09:56 #397649 by 650ed
Patton wrote:


Ebay is often a good source for an FSM.

Good Fortune! :)


Her is the manual that covers the KZ650-C2. As an owner of a 30 year old bike, you really need this book. Good luck, Ed

Kawasaki Factory Service Manual

1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Powered by Kunena Forum