Installing new handlebars...Any Tips ?

I ordered some drag bars for my 78' 650 SR off of ebay, and they have arrived !!! So before jumping into this I wanted to check and see if anyone has tips for doing the swap easily (and hopefully I can avoid making any stupid mistakes). It seems pretty straight forward, I found this link to give me a general idea:
motorcyclistonline.com/howto/change_motorcycle_handlebars/

My only real concern is my old bars had the wires run internally and the drag bars don't have a opening in the center section, do I just drill one ?

As always any tips or advice you guys can offer would be Greatly Appreciated.

Thanks,

Brian

If you want to run the wires through the bars, you will need to drill holes and smooth the edges in the same locations as the stock bars, including the center area AND each switch area.
The alternative is to make a cut out in the switches and not run the wires through the bars but externally. This is what I did.

You will also need to confirm you have enough clearance for the brake hose off the master cylinder as it will often hit up against the tach.

Oh as well the swiches have a post that goes into a hole on the bars to help to keep them from rotating on the bars. Again a hole will need to be drilled or the posts removed.

Post edited by: rstnick, at: 2006/04/01 22:24

Thanks rstnick,

Is there any chance you could show me a picture of how you did the cut-out and routed your wires ?

Thank You,
-Brian

AzKZ650 wrote:

Thanks rstnick,

Is there any chance you could show me a picture of how you did the cut-out and routed your wires ?

Thank You,
-Brian

I doubt he can, cause he said that's not what he did.

It's much easier not to run them through the bars.

Personally I don't run mine through the bars either. I turn lock to lock and use zip ties to retain them outside the bike so they are somewhat cleaner and more organized. Saves a MAJOR headache.

Dont know about your particular set-up, but when i put clubmans on, Throttle cables are now long, and I cant have ANY kink in them or the throttle wont snap shut.
Just something to maybe check when you get them on.

Here is how I did the cut outs in the switches, again smooth any rough edges:
.

Ahh, I thought he was asking for pics of your holes you cut in the bars. lol

I just did the EXACT same thing with my dremel and a carbide tip last night.

Thanks for the pictures rstnick, looks like it would be alot easier doing it that way. I am kinda worried about the length of the cables, the drag bars are alot shorter then my old bars. I'll mock it up and see before I cut or drill anything.

Thanks Again,
-Brian

Mocking it up is smart, don't worry too much about the length of the throttle cables. Just angle the two 90 degree "elbows" coming out of the throttle housing forward instead of inward and you'll most likely be fine. Did the same thing on my wife's 650, works like a charm.

I'm new to the KZ family, but since I was in middle school (20 years ago) I have always loved KZ, or Z1 motorcycles. I have bought and sold a few fix-r-uppers in the past, but never had one running. This is my first 95% complete KZ I have ever owned and there is only a few things keeping it from running. The guy I bought it from ordered some drag bars for it, and was in the process of taking the stock 79 kz1000st bars off and installing cool drag bars on it. He told me the accessories wouldnt fit back on the bars, but it looks like you guys have that problem licked. I already ordered some new street bars and they should arrive anyday, but Im going to try to get these drag bars to work with this information and pic. I also have a repair manual, but I'am a noviced at best. I just got the bike home last week, made space in the garage, and parked it, but I'll play with it today, and see what happens and reference back to this page.

Thanks! I'll let you know how it turns out.

And put a blanket or towel over your gas tank before you start! The new and old bars will be on and off the tank during the swap!

With new bars, the switches may be closer to the fuel tank at right or left "lock" position, or actually hit against the fuel tank. Should assure neither switch contacts the tank at either full left or full right bar position. This may be a "deal killer" for certain types of replacement handlebars. Suggest using the towel to protect the tank for this test as well.