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Allshookup,

If i came of sarcastically well perhaps a touch but there was no intent of malice. Hope you get it figured out in any case.

Measure the forks from the outside and subtract the diameter of 1 tube and you'll have your center to center right on the money.

Poor man's method...Any kind of large woodworker's clamps or vise grip Quick grips will do the job (or anything that can close in on the forks and hold it's position), just set it to fit and carefully remove it and measure the distance with a metric ruler. Do this a few times to be sure the measurement is consistant, when it is, then subtract your 1 fork tube diameter.

If you can't measure it to the outside of the tubes then measure the distance between the tubes and add the diameter of 1 tube to get a perfect center to center measurement.

Poor man's method... an old piece of telescoping radio antenna (or anything you got on hand that can extend out and hold it's position)works perfect here, just place it between the tubes and extend it so it fits perfectly between the tubes then carefully remove it and measure the length with your metric ruler... same thing goes here... measure it a few times to ensure consistancy.

Fork tube diameter can be found by looking up the proper size fork seal for your bike... or by the clamp and measure method above...

Post edited by: Wicked_KZ, at: 2005/10/13 22:48

I have made triple tree yokes before- and this is the method I use to get it EXACT- I take off the top clamp and draw out the holes that way, so I can measure on a flat piece of ( I actually use cardboard for the first trace) - I have the measurments that way on the cardboard closer than the factory tolerances that they allowed (I have seen more than 1mm difference between Z necks already, my first yokes though were helping my unc do harley mods about 20 years ago, long before cad stuff LOL) - once I get them on card board, I transfer it by tracing again with graph paper, and I get centers and everything from there, to the nth degree. I usually taped this to my raw metal as a template, used machinists die or even paint to make the place like a stencil, and then cut away- never had a single probem that way!

Hope that helps- upper yokes are very easy to make

For the lower yoke, you do the same thing, and the stem hole on the bottom is very exact.

If the machinist is going to do this anyway- I would just take the upper and lower yokes to them- they have everything they need to get the measurments with about 30 minutes max of shop time!

If it takes them longer than that- it is not that good of a machinist!