KZ 650 B1 Front Axle Clamp Bolt Broken....Help!

Yes, I went and pulled a real bone-headed move this past weekend. I overtorqued the right front axle clamp nut and broke the bolt that extends from the bottom of the fork tube. I read the wrong torque setting in the Clymer manual- oops! I have a local bike tuning shop that is willing to tap into broken bolt and back it out. They are willing to do this and are pretty confident for a nominal amount of cash. The Kawi dealer wants to charge a min of $80 with the fork off the bike, $100 on the bike. AND, the service mgr even hinted at a new fork leg if not successful on extracting. I sure hope not. This bike has 1,748 miles on it. The fork leg is pristine. I ordered a new bolt and should be here by Wednesday of this week.

If anyone has any feedback on the above and the likelyhood that I will be successful getting the broken threaded bolt out of the bottom of the fork leg, I am open to your thoughts/opinions. Also, I do not have a trailer available this week. I am thinking of riding the ole KZ the 20 miles to the bike shop. Am I insane for considering this? The left fork is ok. The right fork has the broken bolt on the front which the Clymers manual states should be the one without a gap. There is of course a gap since the bolt is broken off and no nut can keep it tight. The back bolt is ok. It is supposed to have a slight gap when both front and back are installed correctly. Is it safe to ride the bike to the shop if I take it real easy? What say ye?

Don't ride it. It's too easy to drop that fork out, can do it in 15 minutes. It's halfway unbolted right now, right?

Thanks Kent for the common sense answer. I will see if I can mooch a friends trailer. This thing is in almost new condition. I sure would hate to have that front wheel hop out and ruin my resto not to mention my day! :lol:

Years ago I decided to replace the M8 x 1.25 X 45MM studs in the forklegs of my 82 GPZ1100 B2. They came out fairly easy using the double nut set up.

Checking on my bike, the front axle clamp has a gap at the REAR with the front part of the clamp tight with no gap.

What I think happened in your case, you assumed that when tight the gap was equal spaced. It mentions this gap in my service manual.The axle clamp caps have an arrow pointing to the front.

That is exactly right M. You described the set up perfectly. A bit of a gap in the back and tight/flush on the front. Clymers described it that way too. I just didn't flip the page and see the correct torque number. I wish I could double nut it. Unfortunately, I broke the bolt/threads off pretty much flush to the bottom of the fork leg. I have nothing left to grab hold. It is going to take one tough drill bit, tapping into the center of the bolt and reversing the broken off bolt out. I just don't have the tools at home. Hate to remove the fork leg. I am hoping my tuner can just put on his lift and drill/tap it out. He seems confident that he can do it. Wish him and me luck.

It should come out fairly easy. Make sure you spray some lube up in there.

Thanks for the tip and encouragement Don!

UPDATE: I have not broken off the threads flush with the fork leg. Stupid me didn't take the time to remove the lover fork clamp. I will try double nutting if I have enough threads. Will definitely spray in some WD-40 and see if I can turn the broken piece out.

It should come out pretty easy there is no load on it now. A pic would help us to help you. Either double nut or drill and E-Z out it. But like I said should come out pretty easy

You might want to use Kroil or if not available PB Blaster rather than WD40. Ed

If not enough good thread exposed to double nut, would consider starting a single nut and tack welding it to the end of the stud. Then turning the stud out with a wrench or socket on the nut.

Good Luck!

Thanks Patton for the practical suggestion. I have good news. I did not have to weld or tack the nut to the stud. This is still a great idea if the stud was more stubborn. However, I successfully got the broken stud out last night! Here is how I did it:

I tried simply using Vise Grips at first but that did not get the stud to turn. I tapped on the stud with a mallet and then sprayed some WD-40 up onto the threads. I was able to use single nut and tightened it as far as it would go. Then I took my wrench and turned it left to loosen. It moved ever so slightly. I tried turning again but then the nut turned and the stud did not. I went back to the Vise Grips and clamped as tight as it would allow. I then got the stud to turn again. I repeated this using less than a 1/4 turn by 1/4 turn until I could turn it from underneath by going vertical with the Grips. I could then spin it until finally the stud was out!

I am so relieved that I did not "screw up" my forks any more than I did. I installed the new stud by again using a single nut and tightening all the way up the bottom end threads. Then I wrenched the stud up into the fork leg as far as it would go. Next, I tightened the Axle. I then reinstalled the bottom fork clamps onto the studs with the nuts. This time I used the correct torque!

Thank you to all for sharing you ideas and suggetions. I feel forutnate that I was able to rectify this in my own garage on the center stand. I am going for a ride after work today! It will be my first on a bike that really hasn't been ridden much in over 30 years. 1,748 miles is all on this baby. She's got new brakes, rebuilt front caliper and master cylinder, new NOS hand grips, stock saddle(yet to put on), new rear break shoes, carbs rebuilt, new fuel line & filter, new NOS fuel tank, fresh oil & filter, new tires, AND one new front fork axle clamp stud! I am going to the gas station, fill her up, put some Seafoam in her belly and run her on down the road. I can't wait! :woohoo: