Broken hub/coupler, can't find for a KZ250

I have a 1980 KZ250 D1.
My special man friend decided to be a nice guy and surprise me by replacing my rear wheel bearings while I was at work. I came home to a broken rear hub/coupling assembly. ( www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/ka...50d1-us-1980/o/m3943 #16)
I've scoured the interweb and can't find one anywhere. I'm hoping hoping hoping someone on here either knows where I might be able to find one or has an old 250 that no longer runs and will let me buy this part...
Next try is to weld it back together.
Any info or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
j

Looking at Kawasaki.com it appears that you need part number 42033-1029 (I never trust bike bandit without checking Ma Kaw). Check this with your dealer to be positive. If this is indeed the case, here's one on ebay that's new:


Hub

How/what is broken? It may be easier and faster to repair it. If it is broken where the bearing is pressed in it may be hard to weld it back together and insure he bore is still round

When doing bearing replacement, I follow these steps:

1.Put the new bearing assembly in the freezer overnight.

2.Remove the old bearing carefully using heat to expand where it's installed.A bearing puller is worth it's weight now.

3.Using the same heat source(Propane torch or heat gun) warm up the wheel hub.

4.The new bearing should almost drop in.Sometimes a bearing driver is needed to tap it in.

5.Never apply force on the inner race of any bearing.Only apply it to the outer race,and then carefully.

6.If the bearing rotates with a gritty feeling, it's bad and must be replaced.

650ed: Thanks! Not sure how I missed that one...Maybe because I didn't search with a part number.
flht: There's still maybe half the depth of the bore that wasn't damaged. There's a local machine shop that does really good work that would probably be able to weld it back together and make sure the bore was smooth to still take the bearing.
MFolks: I'll look into a puller. Have usually been able to carefully tap bearings out going slow and even. This one didn't have any kind of a gap between where the bearing seated and the rest of the hub. Any future replacements will have mandatory manual consultation and much less force involved.