front fork travel ?

try some 30w synthetic motor oil,i thing youll be pleased with the differance.also measure the length on your springs while theyre out

WABBMW,
I agree. If the initial ride height is low the springs are either too short or too weak or both. The fork oil doesn't change the height of the ride, only the rate of compression and rebound. Also, if the unloaded (no rider) ride height is normal but with a rider sitting on the bike the front sags too low, the spring may simply be too weak for the weight of the rider. If that's the case, replacing the springs is necessary to give the front forks enough range of motion to handle road conditions. My rant about not using motor oil was a knee-jerk reaction based on other postings that I have read before in which some folks recommended that as a suitable permanent substitute for fork oil. Be careful with the air pressure as too much can blow the seals. Ed

we used to run 10w40 in the frontends of dragbikes and wheelie prone hot rodded streetbikes when i was younger to keep from flattening header collectors on reentry! :woohoo: synthetic oil actually flows much easier than the dino bones oil so 30w synthetic is closer to a 20-25w conventional oil in the way it acts ive put lots of miles on bikes over the years using motor oil without problems,but just like any oil you have to change the stuff every couple years.the best oil in the world is useless if its dirty :laugh:

Both standard model and LTD model 1977 KZ1000 are supposed to have 465mm fork spring free length when new, and the service limit is 455mm.

Good Luck!

A temporary band aid you can try is to find some pvc pipe that will fit snugly inside the fork tube. Cut two pieces the same length, 3/4 to 1 inch each should do. Find two flat washers that fit snugly inside the fork tubes. Remove the top cap from one fork. Insert a washer and one piece of pipe. Reinstall the cap. Do the same for the other fork. Be careful not to make the spacer too long, or the spring may bind before the forks bottom out. This will provide a bit more preload, but is in no way a good substitute for good springs.
As hillbilly as this sounds, this spacer trick was in the installation instructions that came with the Progressive springs I got for a Concours I used to own.

If motor oil = fork oil doesn't fork oil = motor oil? Rumor has it Plummen runs fork oil in his motors; but you didn't hear it from me. :laugh:

only if i can find 20w50 fork oil! :laugh:

HMM, some good thoughts there, didnt think about the springs being worn out or too short, but that does tend to make sense.
The bottom out over the rail road track is the excat thing I am feeling, so, it seem that I prob need to see about getting some new springs and rebuilding them again to solve this issue.
Thanks

Am thinking oem fork springs on 1977 KZ1000 LTD are dual rate springs.
The springs listed at Z1E appear to be replacement dual rate springs.

Click here > for link to Z1E springs

Found progressively wound springs listed at Dennis Kirk.
Click here > for link to Progressive springs

Z1E lists Progressive products such as rear shocks and springs, but am unaware of whether Progressive fork springs are available from Z1E.

Wouldn't hurt to check with Z1E for their opinion regarding choices for front fork springs, as there may be other considerations involved.

Good Luck!

Fwiw, after three days towed over the highway with the bike's front end tightly cinched down onto a trailer, the Progressive fork springs didn't immediately resume their full extension shape when the bike was uncinched and removed from the trailer, which produced a "lower" front end.

Thought the springs had permanently collasped :pinch: , but thankfully was wrong, as the "collasped" springs somehow resurrected themselves and quickly resumed full extension after riding the bike for a few miles, and with no discernible difference in performance.

Must be magic. :lol: Or maybe a testament to the recuperative powers of Progressive springs.

Good Luck!