'81 KZ650 CSR - need a part

The bike did not come w an in-line fuel filter.
Get the other one that's 3".

Your old front brake pads may be fine if they're not worn.
Removing the pads should be a simple operation. You'll probably have to pry & fiddle w them to get 'em out.

matkz650ku wrote:

Does the FSM provide a lot more than what Clymer gives? I have clymer's already.

I was actually having trouble removing the pads. Clymer says to just remove it and I could not do that. Tips? Also are these the correct placement pads, the description does not list the KZ650

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=3364 ....

I much prefer FSM's which usually provide more information, at least for the large fours.

Am thinking the Z1E brake pads are correct because the title line* includes KZ650 and the oem part number is consistent with kawasaki.com's 43082-1025

*
Brake Pads - Kawasaki KZ1000 KZ1100 KZ750 KZ700 KZ650 KZ550 KZ305
EM91-81314

OEM: 43082-1008 43082-1022/1025

---

Would heed JMKZHI's advice regarding the pads and inline filter.

Good Luck!

The OEM pads are purportedly better than aftermarket which supposedly squeal. So, try to reuse them - that'll save some money too. Clean them w brake cleaner spray.

You'll need to remove the caliper piston: either pump it out w the stock brake setup or use compressed air. Either way, do not let the piston crush your fingers - I almost got mine once - very close - that would've been extremely painful.

After you get the piston out, inspect it for damage, such as scoring, scratches & pitting. Expect some pitting - I don't know how much is acceptable. Mine was pitted, so I got the K&L replacement; it was probably re-useable.

I refurbished my caliper by cleaning it thoroughly, sanding it & buffing the piston bore surfaces w brass wool. The stock paint is tough, so I only went after the peeling areas vigorously. Where ever the paint was okay, I just litely sanded real quick like. Everything was dried w compressed air. Then I masked stuff, made a simple holder bracket & painted it w automotive caliper paint. I baked the caliper in a low temp oven to cure.

craptacular.. i just realized that I thought might have been a fuel filter was in fact not at all. Thinking now, the place didn't make sense and I should have known better. Any way to replace the plastic thing that goes inside the tank attached to the petcock or do I have to get a new one?

Thanks again for all the help so far. Doesn't seem like I'll be able to do my one order now and have it all ready when i get back.

edit: quick additional question, does anyone know if parts are generally available at kawasaki dealers? As I said, the screws on my master cylinder cap are stripped and I'm worried I will kill it while trying to remove the screws. There is one on ebay avail right now, but I don't want to have to get it unless it is hard to get elsewhere.

Have you looked at the petcock screen? There's no need to replace it if it isn't broken.

OEM parts availability: use the diagrams at Kawasaki.com.
The diagram reference numbers are clickable, which speeds up finding the full part number below. Clicking the part number opens a new window, where an item is listed as Active, Active-limited-quantities or Cancelled: some stuff is still available from the dealer. I beieve Z1Enterprises can get anything that's available (I guess they're a Kaw parts dealer?). Also, click the icons & other stuff for additional info.

Start a new topic to ask about the master cylinder screws.
Post a pic. I guess you mean the heads are stripped. Saturate them WD40 or PB Blaster or something & let 'em sit over nite or longer before attempting to get 'em out.

unfortunately I believe I broke the petcock screen a bit when I was taking it off. It seems that the screen itself is no longer available, nor the petcock. I will have to figure out that to do or try to find a screen off another bike unless there is something I can use in its place.

EDIT: I realize I may be in the wrong section now, will repost elsewhere.


so I finally got a chance to work on the bike again as I'm currently studying for a big exam mid-June. I won't be able to work on it again until after the exam but wanted to see if I could get some input.

1) petcock still leaking, I got the rebuild kit and changed the gaskets and seals, but it's still leaking. it seems to be from the area where two halves come together and there's the weird gasket with the metal part. I took it apart and the gasket seemed like it was placed correctly and was not moved during assembly process. I noticed that the lever in front was very difficult to turn, I probably needed to oil up the one seal on the lever itself, but was wondering if it meant anything else? Also, what alternative do i have to replace it? What year bikes use the same petcock, how do i go about finding what other ones I can use?

2) When starting, the rpm fluctuates a lot and I could not get a normal idle. I changed all the plugs which I thought was the issue as it seemed one of the cylinder's previously wasn't firing (also a loose connection issue, but fixed). Basically, with full choke the rpms will go really high to 6K rpms and when I turn it down it sill stay down for a while but randomly it will start going high again, near 4K. The choke seems to be really touchy, when trying to get it back down a bit from the random high moves, often times it just dies. I'm thinking it could still be related to fuel issues since it's still leaking, but I'm not sure.