Chain replacement

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03 May 2009 12:13 - 03 May 2009 12:16 #287497 by 2007geo
Chain replacement was created by 2007geo
I have a new O-rinr chain on my 750E and I can't get the sideplate of the connecting link to go on far enough for the clip to go on. None of the catalogs I've looked in sell a chain plate press big enough for a 630 chain. How do you get the side plate on all the way so the clip can attach?
Last edit: 03 May 2009 12:16 by 2007geo.

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03 May 2009 12:32 - 03 May 2009 20:10 #287499 by Patton
Replied by Patton on topic Chain replacement
2007geo wrote:

I have a new O-rinr chain on my 750E and I can't get the sideplate of the connecting link to go on far enough for the clip to go on. None of the catalogs I've looked in sell a chain plate press big enough for a 630 chain. How do you get the side plate on all the way so the clip can attach?


Side plates are a very snug exacting fit, but I have never needed a special press tool to fit the clip style master link.

Small vise-grip pliers sometimes work to squeeze the side plate far enough onto the master link whereby the clip may be fitted.

Must be lined up so plate is equally and perfectly positioned to go onto both pins simultaneously without being further down on either end before pressing into place.

Am presupposing there's no effort to fit a clip onto a rivet style master link. And no effort to fit a non-o-ring clip style master link onto an o-ring chain.

Good Luck! :)

1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Last edit: 03 May 2009 20:10 by Patton.

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03 May 2009 14:57 #287542 by bountyhunter
Replied by bountyhunter on topic Chain replacement
I recall using two pairs of water pump pliers because I can adjust the jaw space until it will press the plates with the jaws square to the plates. I put one set in between the posts (centered) and use the other set to squeeze on the end edges alternately. Go gradually and you can get it to go all the way on. It is supposed to be a tight fit that requires force to go on.

1979 KZ-750 Twin

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03 May 2009 15:29 #287551 by MFolks
Replied by MFolks on topic Chain replacement
Small C Clamps might be able to get enough pressure to squeeze the plates, or two small vice-grips should work.

1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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03 May 2009 16:38 #287567 by timebomb33
Replied by timebomb33 on topic Chain replacement
use a small c clamp and a small enough socket that will go over the pins then tight one side a bit then the other go back in forth until it is seated far enough so the clip will go on after you get the clip in place then try wiggling the clip if it moves put a large screwdriver back in between the pins and give it a smack with a hammer and it will spread the plates apart enough to put pressure back on the clip and not allow it to come off easy also if your concerened about losing your clip clean the clip and sideplate with brake clean and cover the clip with silicon let it dry before going for a ride.

1973 z1 2-1974z1-a,2-1975z1-b dragbikes1015cc+1393cc, 1977kz1000,1978kz1000,1981kz1000j, 1997 zx-11, 2000 z12r,1428turbo nitrous pro-mod and a shit load of parts thats all for now leader sask.,CANADA
I THINK MY POWERBAND BROKE

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03 May 2009 20:23 #287697 by Patton
Replied by Patton on topic Chain replacement
Perhaps should also be mentioned in this thread a reminder that the master link clip should be installed with the closed end on the leading edge of the link (open end on the trailing edge of the link).

On the top run of the chain, the closed end of the clip should be toward the front of the bike (open end of clip toward rear of bike).

On the bottom run of the chain, the closed end of the clip should be toward the rear of the bike (open end of clip toward front of bike).

When the bike is being ridden, this position of the clip will help avoid it being popped open if hit by a stone or other road debris.

After assembly, a dab of light colored paint or fingernail polish on the clip side makes the masterlink easier to locate.

Good Luck! :)

1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD

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