Fork disassembly help needed

it should but sometimes on these old bikes you will need to hold the damper rod with that fancy tool your gonna build.like racer said not enough tourque from a drill not even close.

I don't have an impact wrench so I used the tapered broom handle. I had to wrap friction tape around the taper to keep it from spinning and used a 36" F-clamp to press it into the tube in the fork. I also had to put a pipe wrench on the broom handle to keep it from rotating. Rube Goldberg would have been proud. Here's the setup. It worked great but I think I wasted an opportunity to talk myself into buying an impact wrench.

You will need to make a suitable tool even if you manage to spin it out with an impact wrench. Why? You need to reassemble it when you're done, and you will need to torque the allen bolt. Don't forget to use non-permanent thread lock when reassembling. Ed

sometimes if you dont have access to a tool that holds the damper rod what you can do is put the fork back together and some times spring pressure will keep it from spinning but is easier with the right tools

also if you don't have access to a compressor go to harbour freight or up here princess auto or canadian tire and buy an 1/2" drive electric impact you can always find electricity but not always air these impacts have about 300 lbs of tourque so they are plenty strong for every thing we need them for on our motorcycles.

650ed wrote:

You will need to make a suitable tool even if you manage to spin it out with an impact wrench. Why? You need to reassemble it when you're done, and you will need to torque the allen bolt. Don't forget to use non-permanent thread lock when reassembling. Ed

put some blue locktite on there and spin it back in with impact/air rachet

and one other thing always replace the little copper washer that seals it up.

Reassembly is just the opposite of disassembly. Just let it spin until the mass of the inner tube causes the allen bolt to tighten up. If you are not careful, you can strip the threads so don't over do it. There is no need to lock-tite it because with the axle installed it can't back out. I have used this method for years and have never had any problems. I know this sounds overly simple (DUH) but it works. With a good air impact and enough air pressure it will work.

If it does come loose you will know real quick. Oil will be dripping but as I said, I have never had any problems with this method. Good Luck

taildragger1197 wrote: Reassembly is just the opposite of disassembly. Just let it spin until the mass of the inner tube causes the allen bolt to tighten up. If you are not careful, you can strip the threads so don't over do it. There is no need to lock-tite it because with the axle installed it can't back out. I have used this method for years and have never had any problems. I know this sounds overly simple (DUH) but it works. With a good air impact and enough air pressure it will work.

You can try this if you like, but I would recommend you follow the instructions in the manual regarding torque and thread lock! If I was paying someone to do it I would be pissed if I saw them just spin it tight with an air tool until it feels like it's about to strip and forget the locktite. So why wouldn't I do it correctly if I was doing the job myself? Making a suitable tool is not difficult for anyone with a little imagination, and doing the job right is its own reward. Sorry if this sounds insulting taildragger1197, but folks who don't own a torque wrench shouldn't work on these, or any, bikes. Ed

650ed wrote:

taildragger1197 wrote: Reassembly is just the opposite of disassembly. Just let it spin until the mass of the inner tube causes the allen bolt to tighten up. If you are not careful, you can strip the threads so don't over do it. There is no need to lock-tite it because with the axle installed it can't back out. I have used this method for years and have never had any problems. I know this sounds overly simple (DUH) but it works. With a good air impact and enough air pressure it will work.

You can try this if you like, but I would recommend you follow the instructions in the manual regarding torque and thread lock! If I was paying someone to do it I would be pissed if I saw them just spin it tight with an air tool until it feels like it's about to strip and forget the locktite. So why wouldn't I do it correctly if I was doing the job myself? Making a suitable tool is not difficult for anyone with a little imagination, and doing the job right is its own reward. Sorry if this sounds insulting taildragger1197, but folks who don't own a torque wrench shouldn't work on these, or any, bikes. Ed

That's OK. I won't be insulted. I know I am the new guy around here and no one knows me from beans. Just trying to be of SOME help.
However I didn't say tighten until it's about to strip. I was warning against over tightening it. And yes I have a torque wrench. In fact I have at least 4 in my boxes.
EVERY bolt on your bike has a torque spec. Do you torque EVERY bolt to spec?
Sorry if I am stepping on someones toes.

i own a couple torque wrenches,theres just certain places i dont feel the need to use them on and after 30 years of jacking with these bikes ive yet to have an issue caused by a dampner bolt backing out.

PLUMMEN wrote:

i own a couple torque wrenches,theres just certain places i dont feel the need to use them on and after 30 years of jacking with these bikes ive yet to have an issue caused by a dampner bolt backing out.

You took the words right outta my mouth.