Changing out handlebars

Are there step-by-step instructions anywhere on changing out the handlebars? Never done this b4 and not sure what is involved and what I'll need. My '77 650C currently has custom Z-bars, which I abhor.

unles they are apehanger z bars every thing should be a straight swap over.

A lot will be determined by how much it was hacked up in order to install the Z-bars. On the 77 650C when it came from Kawasaki the wiring for the switches was run on the inside of the bars. They only did this in 77 and 78 and it was a real PITA. I'm guessing that whomever put those bars on did not run the wires on the inside of the bars, most likely they hacked a notch in the bottom of the switches. Pictures would help in formulating a plan of attack.

Wires should be color coded so it should be just unplug and re-plug. Swapping the bars should just be unscrewing the control pods and the 4 main clamp bolts (make sure you lay a towel on your tank so you don't chip it with the bars). Are your wires run inside the bars or on the outside? Pics would certainly help.

wires are all on outside, so that shouldn't be a problem. I'll try to take some pics tonight. I was wondering mostly about the grips and throttle and how they come off/attach to new bars. It wasn't really obvious to me how all that comes apart.
This is a relatively short z-bar, not ape hangers, so I think the length of wires, etc. should be ok.

www.flickr.com/photos/36643338@N05/sets/72157615863828306/

Pics at grips

On the stock bars a small hole is drilled to index the switch pods so they do not rotate. Carefully measure the pin in the switch assembly and drill a matching hole in the new bars. I think the hole size is 1/8" but check anyway.

MFolks wrote:

On the stock bars a small hole is drilled to index the switch pods so they do not rotate. Carefully measure the pin in the switch assembly and drill a matching hole in the new bars. I think the hole size is 1/8" but check anyway.

Trust me, whoever installed those bars didn't drill anything, they cut off the pins. Everything comes apart real easily. A couple philips screws from the bottom on each switchgear and you just separate them in half and the come right off.

When changing 'bars, your cable and hose lengths may need to change. It is important to make sure cables / hoses can clear headlights and headlight brackets without major contorsions. Master cylinders can be problematic if you run very low bars (like drag bars) - the hose output from the master cylinder can bang on the side of the tach. What you don't want to do is let the end of your throttle assemble hand too far off the handlebars.

If you change the riding position significantly, the weight distribution on the tires will change. This can affect handling. Sometimes slight tire pressure changes are needed.

Holy twisted buckhorn nightmare handlebars BATMAN!!!! Never seen the like! I got some twisted railroad spike highway pegs on the 900 I'm not really fond of but twisted apehangers!!! MY EYES!!

yup, they're horrible. And they're close together, so it feels like I'm steering my daughters tricycle. I actually had a couple of people tell me they like them :blink:

it's cause there ol skool dood.:silly: :silly: :woohoo: