Reconditioning Parts
- kz1000g megasquirting
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- I chrome plate smaller items, pm for info.
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Reconditioning Parts
08 Feb 2009 20:48
Got a little bored with everything else in life, and wanted to learn to plate. Take a look at what I've done lately, let me know what you think. Parts are from a G model, kick starter shaft and oil pressure sending unit.
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- timebomb33
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Re: Reconditioning Parts
08 Feb 2009 20:51
that looks awesome how long did it take and how much to get set-up and one more question how much can you do with each batch of chemicals.
1973 z1 2-1974z1-a,2-1975z1-b dragbikes1015cc+1393cc, 1977kz1000,1978kz1000,1981kz1000j, 1997 zx-11, 2000 z12r,1428turbo nitrous pro-mod and a shit load of parts thats all for now leader sask.,CANADA
I THINK MY POWERBAND BROKE
I THINK MY POWERBAND BROKE
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- Sandy
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- Fly High,Tony
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- trianglelaguna
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- New and improved - extra strength
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Re: Reconditioning Parts
09 Feb 2009 08:56
hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
1976 KZ900
2003 ZX12R
2007 FZ1000
2004 ninja 250R for wife
2003 ZX12R
2007 FZ1000
2004 ninja 250R for wife
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- bill_wilcox100
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Re: Reconditioning Parts
09 Feb 2009 11:52
Real nice results!
Best of success.
Best of success.
1977 KZ650-B1 (Stock)
Upgrades:
- Dyna S Electronic Ignition (DS2-2)
- Dyna 3 Ohm Coils (DC1-1)
- Coil Repowering Mod
- Progressive Springs Front & Rear
- Saddlemen Seat Cover
- New Metallic Red Re-Paint & Repro Badges.
Montreal, Canada
Upgrades:
- Dyna S Electronic Ignition (DS2-2)
- Dyna 3 Ohm Coils (DC1-1)
- Coil Repowering Mod
- Progressive Springs Front & Rear
- Saddlemen Seat Cover
- New Metallic Red Re-Paint & Repro Badges.
Montreal, Canada
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- kz1000g megasquirting
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Re: Reconditioning Parts
09 Feb 2009 13:20
TimeBomb-
I purchased the kit about nine months ago, lots and lots of practice, reading, usergroups, etc... finally am in a good place. It's got a funny learning curve, pretty much goes straight up and then levels off, if you know what I mean. Either you are doing it right, and the buffing effort pays off, or you are not, and you strip and re-do it. This piece actual working(buffing) time total, probably about 3 hours. It's in the tanks idle about the same amount of time. But like anything else, the time will come down with improved methods. But if you look at a stock shaft, you'll see how pitted it is, and it takes a lot of sanding, sometimes grinding, sanding some more, then finally buffing; to get it to an acceptable pre plate condition.
I've got a lot invested, probably much more than what it would cost to pay to have all the parts done that I intend to do. The chemicals run around $1300 or so, and a suitable power supply is around the same amount. Not to mention books, tanks, buffing and blasting equipment, sandpaper, you get the idea. Now I'm only limited to the size of the part that I can fit into the tank, which is roughly a 5 gallon bucket, definetly no wheels or swingarms. Again, a lot $$$.
But!!! The chemicals, as long as they are properly stored and treated well (not contaminating them) will last forever. The anodes are the disposable part, but are relatively inexpensive for the amount that they cover.
Crappy picture, but here's a few other parts I've done lately, axle with spacers, engine mounts...
I purchased the kit about nine months ago, lots and lots of practice, reading, usergroups, etc... finally am in a good place. It's got a funny learning curve, pretty much goes straight up and then levels off, if you know what I mean. Either you are doing it right, and the buffing effort pays off, or you are not, and you strip and re-do it. This piece actual working(buffing) time total, probably about 3 hours. It's in the tanks idle about the same amount of time. But like anything else, the time will come down with improved methods. But if you look at a stock shaft, you'll see how pitted it is, and it takes a lot of sanding, sometimes grinding, sanding some more, then finally buffing; to get it to an acceptable pre plate condition.
I've got a lot invested, probably much more than what it would cost to pay to have all the parts done that I intend to do. The chemicals run around $1300 or so, and a suitable power supply is around the same amount. Not to mention books, tanks, buffing and blasting equipment, sandpaper, you get the idea. Now I'm only limited to the size of the part that I can fit into the tank, which is roughly a 5 gallon bucket, definetly no wheels or swingarms. Again, a lot $$$.
But!!! The chemicals, as long as they are properly stored and treated well (not contaminating them) will last forever. The anodes are the disposable part, but are relatively inexpensive for the amount that they cover.
Crappy picture, but here's a few other parts I've done lately, axle with spacers, engine mounts...
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- kz1000g megasquirting
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Re: Reconditioning Parts
09 Feb 2009 13:24Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- 650ed
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Re: Reconditioning Parts
09 Feb 2009 16:21
Considering the great results I see, I suspect you could recover your investment pretty quickly by doing little plating jobs for your good buddies here on KZR.
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- kawsakiman
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Re: Reconditioning Parts
12 Feb 2009 10:53
jim is a little bit of a mad Scientist.
he is the only guy i know who has a chrome set up, powdercoat, sandblaster booth and all the other toys we all want.
plus, how many of us could get away with this
on the kitchen counter?
he is the only guy i know who has a chrome set up, powdercoat, sandblaster booth and all the other toys we all want.
plus, how many of us could get away with this
on the kitchen counter?
someday i will be able to afford my kz habit.
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